Thursday, September 25, 2014

Yesterday, we went into Noyers-Sur-Serein , a quaint town of half timebered houses, cobbled streets and turreted ramparts.  We walked outside the city walls, keeping the river to our right.  Conrad and Glenn climbed the 300 steps (and then some) up to the excavation, started about 6 years ago by a Dutchman, Wilhelm.

We ambled into town, browsing the shops, and taking it all in.  We stopped at a shop of medieval paintings.  The owner is from the states and creates small cards and paintings recreating a dying art.  Bought little mementos for the kids, suitable for framing.  We also stopped at a local goat/sheepherder, doing the shearing himself, designing garments and various apparel made by a staff of 10 women.  I  was attempted to buy myself gloves to replace what I lost in “the fall”, but decided against them because in NY, we need water proof gloves!!

Next stop, the leather shop.  WOO HOO!  I past it up, but kept thinking about a really cute bag.  When later we met up with Sue and Michael, she wanted to go back there for a second opinion from Karen.  I tagged along, and then treated myself to the little shoulder pouch I had seen earlier.  A stop at a little gallery serving all types had coffee, and ALORS!  Time for the bus.

The ride back to Accolay was unpleasant to say the least.  Most of the girls felt a little car sick (got to know Anna a little better)and when we got back to Accolay, there had been a diesel mishap upon filling up, so that contributed to the ill feelings.

Lunch was mussels (of which I did not partake) which everyone enjoyed, salami salad, couscous and a green salad.  Dessert, of course, a selection of cheeses.

After lunch we all chose what we wanted to do.  I biked alone from Aignan to Mailly-le-Chateau, stoping for photos along the way.  I doubled back, picking up the barge again at Sery.  I did almost 10 miles – it was great.

Each evening, around 5, specialty drinks are put out, with pretzels or cookies – it’s pretty nice.

Our stop on Wed, is in Mailly-le-Chateau.  A beautiful setting – as always , dinner started with a fresh pea soup, followed by 2 types of salmon.   A bed of pearl barley kept us guessing, while a selection of assorted mushrooms delighted our palates.  After the cheese course, dessert was coconut ice cream, crunchy granola and glazed figs!! UMM MMMM!!

It should be pointed out, that at each meal, (except breakfast) the wine was flowing.  Each day, the selection of wine reflects the region of where we have been. 

After dinner, about 11 pm, the girls decided to play Balderdash.  After gallons of wine, this was pretty funny.  Karen was determined to win – and she did!  The belly laughs were many – while the guys had a political discussion going.  They inserted themselves occasionally, adding to the hysteria.  Glenn is my new laugh buddy.  I can’t be next to him!!

Today, Thurs, some got up early to take a 7:30 walk up to Le Chateau.  I skipped it and prepared for our 9:30 pick up for a trip into Vezelay.  This town has been the centre of pilgrimages for centuries.  It’s only about 12 miles from the waterway.  Surmounted by the magnificent basilica, the steep-sided hill town has numerous shops and cafes.  Vezelay was the historic starting point for 2 of the crusades to the Holy Lands.

 It was a feeling of respect and awe and almost reverence to imagine  thousands of horses and men listening to LouisVll and Saint Bernard before deploying East.  The town and basilica owe its prestige  to the relics of Mary Magdalene and a papal declaration attesting to their authenticity.  The crypt containing said relics, was closed however, due to major reconstruction/renovation.  The basilica itself has undergone numerous fires and rebuilds since the 11^th century.  Both Gothic and Roman arches are obvious, and the light plays an important role in the placement of its windows.  One of the guides who preceded Anna thought the basilica was reminiscent of the basilica written about in the work by Ken Follett, Pillars of the Earth.   This guide wrote to Follett, and he concurred!  Can’t wait to share this tidbit with all my Pillar fans!!

After our brief yet informative visit to the Basilica, we walked down the main street, stopping in shops along the way.  I treated myself to an angora (sheep) capelet – tres bien!!

Lunch – o mon Dieu! – Starters was a creuset of risotto with haddock, peas.  Salads included a celery root/Dijon, a medley of three seafoods, and of course greens with heirloom tomatoes.  A platter of  mixed melons of course followed by the cheeses.  Lenny wanted the OLD cheese, but we got the young.

Afternoon activity was biking/walking and puppy cuddling. 

 Susan and I did the entire tow path and then doubled back doing about 7 miles.  At one of the locks, we saw a dog.  We realized there were a few more – sacre bleu!  6 puppies – Australian sheep dogs – one blue eye, one dark.  Quite the  phenomenon!

Our stop tonight is in Lucy-sur-Yonne.  For some reason, the men seemed to get decked out, or as Conrad says, “COLLOARED UP”!   Most stayed topside for the sunset…  a beautiful affair.  Now for dinner – MAGNIFIUE!!  Our appetizer was a triangle terrine of brown and white crab, topped with salmon roe.  We were served braised lamb shank for our main course, with a potato layer that resembled scalloped potato but that’s not what it was!  Juanita thinks it was pomme de terre dauphine (?) with bits of chorizo on top  - MMMMMM GOOD!!  Two little spears of asparagus accompanied the entrée.  Let’s talk dessert – poached pears, with a side of mango moose.  Forget the cheese, just know, we had it.

For some reason, I got the bright idea to play THUMPER.  I was happy to share my prowess and we were roaring!  Mild mannered Susan strutted herself, and played with gusto.  Conrad broke the sequence by pausing a nano-second too long, thus ending the game.  We followed up with a game of balder-dash, playing in pairs.  I think it’s safe to say, fun was had by all.