June 6 Monday

 

The “cabana” hotel (our mountain retreat) had the hardest pillows yet!  Great atmosphere, but really hard pillows.  Anyhow, on our way to breakfast, it was drizzling, casting a pallor over thoughts of riding.  Since we got snookered the other day, by not having our jacket, we decided to take out rain gear in the bike bag…just in case.  As we left for the day, the sun was trying to break through, confirming the idea that if we had the gear, we wouldn’t need it! 

We left Palas de Rei for our next stop, Arzua.  We biked through town, onto country roads.  Then… the first hill.  It wasn’t just any hill, it was a gradual climb over several kilometers, into switchbacks.  I decided at this early hour that I wouldn’t kill myself and walk whenever I needed to.

We joined the Camino and it was immediately obvious that there were more pilgrims in this area than we had encountered before.  The roads were a little wider than the preceding day, but the ruts and to rocks were plentiful.  The weather was holding, and our surroundings were beautiful.  As we came into a town (not sure which) I noticed a pilgrim stopping to smell a rose that was growing through a section of fence.  I thought about “stopping to smell the roses” and hope that I and that pilgrim will continue to do so when the Camino is done.  A word about that… apparently there is a saying, “El Camino es la Meta”.  Rosita couldn’t give me the actual translation, but I think it means that the end of the Camino is not the end, only the beginning.  So the take away, is to continue to live the Camino, that being one of brotherhood, generosity.

 

After one slide and slip down a muddy embankment, I hobble, walked my bike up to the next packed area.  A woman was selling Camino souvenirs from a makeshift booth.  I had to stop and peruse!  Lenny was behind, so as soon as he arrived I ran to get money from him. The vendor thought this was pretty funny, and mimed that woman always buy and men always have their hand in their pocket to pay.  I guess it’s the same in any country!
 

 

As the trail came into Melide, we got a little turned around.  Apparently we were not at the right stop sign (per the cue sheet), and we wound up going through an industrial section.  I suggested we look for a steeple, for surely the church would be in the town center. Conrad and Jodie found the way, and we stopped for lunch at a place called Chaplin’s.  That’s right – as in Charlie!  Finally got my burger and it reminded me of when we got burgers in Venice for the kids so many years ago…. Neigh…. that good!, BUT the fries were great!

It was decided to take the country roads for the final afternoon ride since the Camino was so populated.

I was able to keep up with the rolling hills, but once they became seated climbs, off the bike I came.  I guess you could say I walked the Camino.  After the second “Road Goes Up”, I decided to stop Iago the next time he came around.  Thankfully, Lenny had stayed with me the most part, so we vanned together.  When I saw the road we would have had to climb, I was thankful for my decision.  We arrived in Arzua to our hotel, Pazo de Santa Maria.  It was absolutely delightful!!  It is the Spanish version of an Agritorissmo in Italy. 

The accommodations consisted of several buildings, including a main house, and house for dining, built of stone and wood.  The open fireplaces were spectacular as were the cozy sitting areas.  We had cocktails on the patio, and we were happy to be there early so we could enjoy the gardens, the pond, the croaking frogs, and the lazy cow!!  It was during this time that Rosita told us our planned Mass and ceremony in Santiago was cancelled.  She gave us options to either drive to Santiago for and earlier Mass or bike and miss the ceremony.  We had to decide by end of day.  We were just about split down the middle which worked out well.  Hard to believe we’re almost at journey’s end.