Thursday April 5, 2018

Maryann, Vinny and us arrived in Rome by 11:30 am, excited to begin our sojourn!  We cabbed to our apartment near the Spanish steps and I was  happy that our driver pointed out sites along the way.  I was at once flooded with memories of past visits to this marvelous city.

As it turned out, our apartment was just up the stairs (and around the corner from the Spanish steps) from where we had lunch upon arrival the last time, in 2010!  But alas!  UP THE STAIRS!!  with much luggage!

We dropped off the bags, then made our way to the STEPS.  Crowded as ever, but we climbed, and tried to find the other entrance to our place.

The sweeping staircase was built in 1725, and ascends in three tiers from the Piazza di Spagna to the French Trinita dei Monti church.  There is a boat shaped fountain at at the bottom that was supposedly designed by Bernini. 

We lunched at the familiar restaurant then debated whether or not to rest.  I was tired but knew too well, that if you give in to sleep, there is the possibility of sleeping til the ‘morrow!

Alyssa and friend (David) were arriving at midnight and we wanted to be awake then, so we did take some down time, but set the alarms.

We ventured out around 5 and made our way to Trevi Fountain.  The focal point of this fountain, is Neptune who is riding a chariot drawn by winged sea horses across white marble and cascading water.

It was mobbed and we couldn’t get down to the rim.  We threw our coins in and made our wish to return.  Onto the Pantheon, which was just about to close.  It was built in 27 BC and is the most complete building to come down to us from ancient Rome.  It was originally a pagan temple to the gods, but later consecrated as a Catholic church in the 17th century.  The temple is exactly wide as it is high.  It is the world’s largest unreinforced concrete dome.  It is supported by pillars hidden in the walls. We oohed and ahhed before heading to the Piazza Navone for drinks.  Navone is lined with restaurants and cafes, but I was holding off going to Tre Scalini for Tartuffo because that was for dessert.  The main fountain of the square is the Fountain of the Four Rivers - also Bernini - representing four continents - always a sight to behold!

After drinks, we walked across town to a recommended restaurant, Santa Cristina.  The food was fabulous and not touristy!  The waiter liked Vinny’s muscles!  We walked home from there, and basically walked 10 miles!  That would become the norm!

The kids arrived at 12, but I went to bed - they went to Mickey D’s!!  Nothing was opened - so hard to believe!

Friday, April 6

Lenny and I went out for an Italian breakfast while the others got themselves together.  We had an 11:30 Vatican Garden Tour reservation.  This was a first for us - it also included entrance to the Vatican Museum and the Sistine Chapel… very cool.  Fortunately, it was a spectacular day and perfect for walking the gardens.  Highlights included the daily path of Pope Francis, on his way to breakfast with Benedict, who resides on the grounds, the grotto, the massive bell gifted to John Paul II, the rose garden, the replica of the grotto of Fatima, where President Bush met with John Paul II, and of course the views of Vatican City.  

Upon completion we entered the museum, and again, the crowds were huge!  We were literally chest to chest while walking through the various galleries.  But ah - once in the Sistine Chapel, we were able to slip into the center space where we had an opportunity to gaze at our leisure.  It was at this point that we lost Lenny.   Michelangelo’s magnificent frescoed ceiling depicts Creation and other biblical tales.  It was difficult to find them on our own - but the creation of man and the final judgement - words can hardly describe the beauty.  Thinking about how he did this ceiling, probably entirely on his back, is astounding.

Unfortunately, we took the wrong exit from the chapel.  We thought we could access the basilica from the chapel, but no.  We ended up in the central entrance area - and there was Lenny.  Good thing he went the wrong way too.  AND - we were separated from the kids even before the chapel so we had no way of knowing where they were.  Maryann decided it would be best to walk around to the front of St Peter’s Square, and go in that way.

I forgot to mention, that I exited the plane with sorely swollen feet.  I thought it was from the flight, but the swelling persisted, and extended to my legs. I must admit I was hurting pretty badly.  So when we began to walk around the walls of the Vatican, I thought I would never make it.  All I wanted was to sit down and wallow. 

As we approached the square, we realized there was yet ANOTHER line, and it extended almost around the whole square - It was a several hour wait - like being at Disney!    Luckily, we found Alyssa and David  in that enormous square - I’m still not sure how - I was happy to be standing still - and decided to have lunch and skip the Vatican.  While at lunch, we decided that Vinny HAD to see the basilica.  It was decided then, that we would return on Saturday morning, when it opened… 7:30am! 

Fed, watered and rested, we decided to cab to the coliseum - thank God - I wouldn’t have made it!  Guess what - another line! 

 We were approached by tour reps, and we decided to buy in.  In this way, we could skip the line AND know what we were looking at!  It was supposed to be 40 minutes to an hour, but actually was longer.  The coliseum was once able to seat 50,000 people.  It was begun in 72 AD and sponsored by the rich and powerful.  Over the centuries, its stones were quarried for other monuments and churches.  It will always be associated with gory combat between man and animals.  Our guide George, spent time telling us about gladiators. - It wasn’t as prestigious as portrayed in film.  It was a job - with no benefits.

The tour complete, we headed for the Rinascente Dept Store.  This is a fairly new store that while being constructed, the old Roman via duct was unearthed.  Construction stopped until they figured out a way to incorpoate the scavi.  The end result - a glass walled display of the archeological site with explanations projected onto the plates.  Amazing - 

Anyhow - drinks at the Sunset Terrace of the store - fabulous views and we were there for sunset!…how apropo!  

Reservations for dinner were for that evening at Testevere where we were meeting girls from Mineola.  There was some chatter about walking, but thankfully, we took a cab.  The driver was incensed that we would consider Testevere for eating!  He griped and made fun the whole way.  Dinner was in the square  - a little tourist-y but the wine was great!  Then back to Piazza Navone for tartufo at Tre Scalini!  Perfect ending - oh - not done yet - walk home!  Another 10 mile day!

Saturday, April 7th

Up at 6:30 for an early morning visit to the Vatican.  The cue wasn’t bad at all, and we got in shortly after the opening.  It was worth getting up at the crack of dawn just to see Vinny’s reaction to the enormity and antiquity of the basilica.

Vatican City is the world’s smallest independent state.  Construction of the basilica began in 324 on the site where St Peter was crucified.  The dome rises above an elliptical colonnade by Bernini, and was rebuilt and embellished by the greatest talents of the 16 and 17 centuries.  The dome was designed by Michelangelo, and St Peter’s is home to his Pieta.  I was disappointed that this particular sculpture was cordoned off and we couldn’t get close.  It is just so amazing that marble can come alive!

We took in the various side chapels/altars, admiring the workmanship and marveling at the antiquity.  Short but sweet, we ended our visit and returned to the apartment to complete packing up.  

We returned to the apartment shortly before Lenny arrived with the rental.  Off to Tuscany and our farmhouse in San Gimignano!  Our lunch stop was in Orvieto, a little town north of Rome.  It boasts underground caves, a funicular and like every other town in Italy, a duomo.  Charming and quaint, it was a great half way point.

We arrived in San Gimignano in the late afternoon.  Concetta, the owner, was not there, we were met by her sister.  I should mention that when Concetta returned home, she came up to greet us and she chattered away in Italian and it was hard to keep up with her - it was downright funny at times! The house was great, each bedroom having its own bath.  It was decided that we (Vinny) would cook, and we would eat in.  We ventured into town in search of vittles.  We enjoyed walking the cobbled main road and I had to ask where we could find “fresh meat”.  The directions took us to almost the end of town, and there in the piazza was a bridal party.  The party was driving around in a decorated van… good luck to the happy couple!

Vin and Mare made the purchases and I knew we were in for a treat with Vinny cooking.  A final stop at the little market on the way home and we were set… pasta with eggplant, zucchini, and sausage…Mmmmm!

 

Sunday morning dawned sunny and cool.  Mare and Alyssa had a yoga session outside on one of the extra blankets.  Today’s plan was to go to Cortona (of Under the Tuscan Sun fame). We were meeting Lina - a cousin of Lenny at Il Falconier - a restaurant we found back in ’02.  Dinner was spectacular - very elegant - champagne served before even getting a menu.

Il Falconier is set high on a hillside and I wondered how we found it the last time!  Thank goodness for google mat!  It is actually a hotel/resort and the gardens were beautiful.  The restaurant is below in the original wine cellars.  Lunch was a relaxed affair and the desserts…to die for.  After Maryann and I finally decided on a Pannacotta to share, we were brought a beautiful display of mini desserts - for all to share.  Presentation is everything!

After dinner and strolling/picture taking, we drove to the town of Cortona… even higher up.  We parked on the mountainside on the way up and had to walk into town.  Lino had us basically rock climb, and climbing fences when later we learned there was a more direct route!

The hilltop town of Cortona, with its steep streets, narrow ladderlike alleys and ancient houses were a wonder to behold.  The city is one of the oldest cities in Tuscany, founded by the Etruscans (they migrated to Italy from Asia Minor around 900 BC!).  Evidence of their work can still be seen in the foundations of the town’s massive stone walls.  

The Palazzo Comunale (Town Hall) dates from the 13th century.  With it’s large tower, added in the 16th century, makes it an ideal spot for gathering and people watching.

Before parting ways with Lino, he gifted us with a 5lb. mozzarella!  What you may ask, were we to do with a mozz that big!  When we got back to the house, Lenny immediately brought a piece of it to Concetta and her husband, Paolo.  Then Maryann went to work recreating a childhood lunch…crostini…basically grilled cheese with mozz, egg dipped and fried!  OMG - and I thought lunch was good!  

Monday April 7th

Alyssa and Dave were flying back to Barcelona in the afternoon, so the plan was to spend the day in Florence.  The day dawned gray and misty.  By the time we got to the city it was raining pretty heavily.  We wasted some time in trying to park outside the city, but figured it out and parked at Santa Maria Novella, at the train station.  This was a good beginning point for our city discovery.  After purchasing umbrellas, we made our way to the Duomo.  Lo and behold - lines galore.  This seems to be a new phenomenon.  I attribute it to the need for security and metal detectors.  Anyhow, the line for the tower (campanile) was shorter so we decided to do that - another first for Len and me.  The wait was about an hour, we bought tickets to the top (also included the baptistry and the museum) and began the ascent.  I was still feet challenged, after all it was a 416 step climb…we made it!

The Duomo or cathedral of Florence dominates the city with its enormous dome, designed by Brunelleschi.  That, the baptistry and bell tower are clad in white, green and pink Tuscan marble.  No matter how many times you visit this city, these buildings rising in the center, never cease to amaze.

We strolled to the Piazza del Signor and gaped at the fake David and the gallery with the rape of the Sabines.  Then it was off to find lunch.  We walked the Ponte Vecchio (or Ponte D’oro) and ate at one of Nick’s recommendation - Gusta Oesteria, not to be confused with Gusta pizza.  We thought we’d stop at Santa Croce - but - LINES!!  It was disappointing.  We gave up the idea of another church, found a place for coffee then marched across the city (again) to the leather market.  We scoped out what we wanted and decided to return EARLY next morning to see the Duomo.

The kids were dropped at the airport and we returned to the house.  Upon arrival, we found Vin Santo or “Holy Wine” waiting for us.  I guess it was a thank you for the mozz, and homemade contucci, small almond biscuits for dunking.  That combined with more mozz, prosciutto, cheese and bread - another great meal!

Tuesday April 8th

Up early to return to Florence to be at the opening of the Duomo.  First we were were able to visit the Baptistry and admire the works of Ghiberti - the celebrated bronze doors.  Turns out they are replicas.  The originals are in the Museo dell’Opera del Duomo.

Onto the line for the cathedral.  This was somewhat disappointing.  The nave was empty and you couldn’t get close to the altar.  There was some renovations going on.  What we did get to see was a new exhibit below the church which was an excavation that opened to the public in recent years.  It seems this church (Santa Maria del Fiore) underwent many transformations and evidence of all this was unearthed.  It was fascinating to realize all the layers that comprise the present structure.  We were so enthralled, that we bought books about the building of the dome!  It seemed  logical at the time.

Our next stop was the museum - another first for us.  This was great - the original bronze doors were beautifully displayed.  We were not rushed and could take as much time as we wanted.  The museum houses another Pieta of Michelangelo.  There was so much to see in each room and gallery.  I think it warrants a return trip!

The plan for lunch was to venture into Chianti country.  The hillsides on this region are filled with vineyards, wine estates, and castles that are breathtaking.  It was a drizzly day, I can only imagine how it would be on a glorious sunny day!  Our destination was Badia a Coltibuono - a Romanesque church and abbey.  Again the views were fabulous and lunch was great!

The trip back to the house took us winding up and down mountains.  It was a little nerve wracking because of the weather - at times we rode along a sheer drop - much to the horror of Maryann.  

Dinner consisted of emptying the fridge, wine and wine, contributing to a feeling of contentment!

Tomorrow - it’s off to Lake Como! … Another FIRST!

Wed April 9

The day was overcast with imminent rain.  I took the back seat/bench for the long drive to the lakes so I could stretch out my oversized feet!  We stopped in Modena for lunch and walked between the raindrops to find the center of town.  Modena is located in the Emilia-Romagna region and is known for its balsamic vinegar and its opera heritage.  It is also the home of the late Pavorotti and Enzo Ferrari, the car designer.  We parked in a garage near the stadium and university and found the Piazza Grande and the beautiful cathedral.  Sections of it were under wraps for renovations, but what we saw was beautiful.

The front facade features three large wooden doorways and huge circular stained glass window, at the main entrance, statues of two lions stand guard.

Inside, the brickwork really stands out and the artwork above the main altar is laced with gold and depicts the Passion of Christ.  Lunch was great and then on the road again. Lenny wanted to go through Milan to scope the parking options for our tour on Friday.  

Sitting in the back was great to view the changes in the countryside.  From the vineyard covered hillsides to the flat industrial region to the bustling urban frenzy, to the lakes that appeared out of nowhere to the towering Alps - whew - all in ONE day!! - FANTASTIC!

We reached Varenna on Lake Como late that night (much traffic) and had an interesting time of getting the huge van down a tiny alley into the parking garage.  At one point, I thought the van was slipping backward!  Upon arrival, it was raining cats and dogs, so that added to the stress (mine, not Lenny’s).

The Hotel du Lac was Anna and Rich’s recommendation, and it was great.  An old home that was converted to a hotel and recently, it would seem, had been updated.  Our room had a veranda, but unfortunately, the weather didn’t cooperate for us to take advantage of the view.  The view by the way, was spectacular.  The mountains, the lake…ah … definitely a return trip is required!

The next morning, the rain didn’t dampen our urge to explore.  Len remained behind, and we took the ferry to Bellagio and shopping!  So super quaint - all the shops - the steps - the climb - my feet -   After a few hours, I decided to return back to the hotel while Mare and Vin ferried to other parts.  We later met up for lunch.  

Dinner that night was at Il Camminetta, up the mountain then down.  The road was all hairpin turns, with no shoulders and barely passing room for other cars.  We finally arrived and blew right passed it!  I think our biggest challenge was the size of the van - it just didn’t make it in those tiny small towns!

Dinner was great, the wine greater, and the company greatest!  There was another group there from the states, and the owner had actually picked them up from their respective hotels!  Lenny would have none of that!

Concerned about the ride back, Mare and I did Lenny the favor of finishing the limoncello so he wouldn’t have to drink it!  Best night ever!

Friday - up at the crack of dawn to get to our tour reservation at 9:30.  Traffic was so bad, we missed the planned parking garage, and hurried to the tour center office.  We were about 10 minutes late, and the guy runs out from behind the counter and says “Come with me”  He literally had us standing in the street while he flagged down buses looking for our.  AND - we weren’t the only ones that were late.  Anyhow - finally settled onto the bus - we began our city tour of Milan.  First stop was the Duomo - but Lenny and I needed to make another stop, so we left the group.  We almost  didn’t find them, but  we had the audio guides, so I put mine on and hoped I would eventually hear our guide.  SUCCESS!

The tour included a stop at La Scala, the opera house, and then onto the monastery of Santa Maria delle Grazie - home of Leonardo Da Vinci’s Last Supper!   - the icing on the cake!  This masterpiece was painted on the north wall of the refectory between 1494 and 1498.  Imagine - the new world was just being discovered, and all this brilliance was happening in Italy!  DaVinci’s use of perspective, puts us right there in the upper room!  I think we were all moved to see and appreciate this work of art from so long ago.

Off to lunch! - We found a place on the Vialle Dante, and were met by Mimmo!  He took the afternoon off to spend with us!  We tried to get into the church, but the line was too long.  It was so disappointing.  We decided to go to a rooftop bar - aha - another Renascente - and had an Aperol spritz…yummy.  Then we walked through the fashion district, oggling over what is considered in vogue! 

We found our way to restaurant Santa Lucia, where Luisa met us.  What a wonderful evening!  The waiter brought out antipasto for us and talked to me and Lenny.  It was great having Mimmo with us, I felt like they treated us better with him there.  His English is pretty good, and it was easy to communicate.  Luisa speaks a little but seems hesitant.  I’m looking forward to seeing them in October.

We walked to the garage through the church piazza, and the city was transformed at night.  It was beautiful and we had a tough time finding the equivalent word in Italian.  Anyway, we said our goodbyes and went in search of our hotel near the airport…another adventure!  Hotel Oesteria della Pista!…what a hoot!  I think it had something to do with race horses and airplanes!  The people were great - a young crowd.  The rooms were newly done and pretty modern.  It was a long day and we were grateful for a bed…anywhere!  Departure day would be another early call. 

To wrap it up - the trip was great - lots of firsts - lots of laughs - lots of great food - and memories to last a life time!