Tuesday Sept 25^th 2018

The day dawned bright and sunny… but the WIND!  The storm we arrived with was not typical for this time of year.  The winds are called BURRA.  The white caps on the ocean outside the hotel were not to be believed.  Some of the group had rooms on the ocean side, and they said the wind howled all night!  Lada and Neve (our guides) assured us that these winds last for 3 days, the first day being the worst.  Well, that was yesterday, and it still was pretty bad on this Day 2!  Anyhow, our ride took us to an olive oil museum.

Suffice it to say I didn’t do the whole ride and I was amazed that Lenny was able to complete it.  I guess it should be noted, that most of the group had E-Bikes.  These are bicycles equipped with a battery, that can be used in 4 different gears:  Eco, Tour, Sport and Turbo.  Needless to say, not having those “boosts”, I was usually the caboose!

The making of olive oil was explained to us in an original stone “hut” still family operated.  However, technology has found this old world place and they now have machines to make the oil.  We were showed the old method, and then treated to a tasting.  It was yummy – including the fig jam! 

We were then rewarded with a great downhill, only to be given a false sense of accomplishment, as the road “went up”!  It was a quieter road along the north coast to a little town of Pucisca.  I was dead last with Neve riding close behind me, cheering me  Then she got a call and told me to stop.  Apparently, it was getting late, so Lada was coming to get me!  How embarrassing!  Anyhow, driving into Pucisca, I was again struck by the beauty of the seaside landscape.

The sea is an undefinable blue.  We were able to have lunch in town, and then a stop at Brac’s stone cutters’ school.  Brac’s world renowned stone has been used in the construction of some of the world’s most famous buildings, including Diocletian’s Palace in Split, and the White House!

After returning to the hotel, we relaxed and got ready for our evening with a local family for a traditional dinner.  We were split into two groups.  Lada walked Michael, Sue, Darryl, Jane and us along the waterfront to our dinner.  It was blowing like crazy – and cold!  The alleys were comprised of big stones, in beautiful patterns. Our hosts were Mario and Caterina.  They were so welcoming.  Dinner consisted of cheeses and prosciutto, salad, and the main course was stuffed peppers.  It was pretty good and a welcome change from restaurant food.  Dessert was a delicious tart cherry strudel- even though I said no, I ate the whole thing!  It was a great experience.

Wednesday, September 26, 2018

It’s still blowing!  I was dreading the ride today because of the weather.  But – again, it was bright sun and warm.  We were shuttled to a little town of Lozisca. The ride was a 9-mile loop that took us to the port of Milna.  When we reached Milna, we were to ride the waterfront keeping the harbor and sea to our left.  Supposedly, there was a lighthouse somewhere, and we were given an opportunity to swim if we wanted. 

The beaches on this island are plentiful, but very rocky.  Water shoes a must.  (Spectacular downhill by the way) – So we entered town, and continued around the harbor, to an area of beach(?), lighthouse(?) – it was just great getting off the bike and getting our feet wet.  Glenn did go in, as did Spencer.

Lunch was on VBT, at a restaurant on the water.  It comprised of 3 different salads, which was an unexpected change.

I was feeling very winded with lungs burning, so I opted to van to a better “down” vantage point with Neve.  She let me off somewhere, where I proceeded the next leg of the ride on my own to the port of Supetar.  The entry into this town is along a shaded walking zone, passed beautiful hotels and varied kiosks selling all kinds of things.   I caught up to everyone, and stopped for a gelato.  I should mention here, that last night, before we had dinner, the group met with Lada and Neve for a quick Croatian vocabulary lesson and then a Croatian trivia game.  We were put into teams…mostly couples, but Lenny wouldn’t sit next to me, so it was me and Darryl – and we won!  So our gelato was on VBT!  The game was fun, and the gelato was great!

The ride took us back to the hotel where we’d get ready for dinner – on our own.  We joined Karen and Conrad and went into town and had cocktails on the sea wall, watching the sunset. 

Truly beautiful, because the wind had FINALLY died down!  Dinner was at konobo-Gustirna.  It seemed we were in a cave, but I think it was an underwater something, or aquarium…anyhow, dinner was great and the wine was better! 

When we got back to the hotel, “Ursula” was performing, so we decided to sit and have a night cap. She was fantastic!  I thought we’d here Croatian, but she sang rock n roll in English!  Everything from Joan Jett, to Tina Turner, to Beatles, Dooby Brothers – it was so much fun!  We (or I) were singing along when Lada and Neve came in.  It was probably the latest we all stayed up, even though we had an early call for the next morning… early morning ride, then a boat transfer to Hvar.

Thursday, September 27^th, 2018

We were shuttled to a little town called Praznica. 

Lada told us about a tree that had been growing for a hundred years from the roof of a little church!  It was pretty cute!  Our ride today was taking us to Zlatni Rat Beach in Bol.  We had a spectacular downhill overlooking the water and many islands of Dalmatia.

 

Upon arrival at the appointed place, we turned in our bike gear, and headed for the beach.  The water seemed cold initially, but of course warmed up as you got used to it.  The guys swam, as did Susan.  I only got my feet wet.  Then we walked into town, found a place for lunch, then met Neve who took us to the boat that would carry us to Hvar.

We arrived on Hvar at the port of Jelsa.  Another beautiful seaside town.  With all these beaches, I can’t imagine what it must be like here in July and August!  Before we met the van that would take us to our hotel, we were able to get some gelato, or coffee or tea, and drink in the sights.

Overlooking the town and harbor is a mighty hilltop fortress with walls extending out, embracing the Old Town.  We are staying at the Park Hotel which is just outside the wall, but in a great location.  All the hotels have been pretty nice, but this one is unique.  No elevator – all marble hallways and stairs – and Lenny and I got a duplex!  Two bathrooms, two tvs (of which we never put on), two beds, and two living rooms!  … I digress...

Hvar used to be a sleepy fishing village, but as its popularity increased, it is sometimes referred to as the Croatian Riviera.  It’s known for its lavender among other things, and Mama Mia II was filmed here!  I find that extraordinary!  There are not real streets, but rather alleys and steps everywhere.  The entrance to our hotel, for instance, is up a flight of stone steps.  The hotel shares space with a restaurant that actually sets tables on the steps!

Our first night’s dinner, was once again hosted by locals- we went to their home-up a lot of steps!  I might add at this time, that when we were walking across the square earlier, my knee gave out.  I iced it immediately, but I had a hard time doing all those crazy steps!  We were treated to a fabulous meal, where we were encouraged to figure out what the ingredients were in our appetizer.  It was similar to what my mom used to make with peppers and tomatoes, but my team lost that contest!  We missed the basil (can’t believe that), and it was predominately tomatoes – NO PEPPERS.  Whatever it was, it was delicious.  The main course was fresh caught tuna, prepared with the salt that Antin (our host) harvested himself from the sea.  Dessert was a type of traditional cake.  Great night!

Friday September 28^th, 2018

Today our ride would take us to Stari Grad.  This was the island’s original settlement, dating back some 2,400 years!  The ride begins with a wicked uphill, that I opted out of.  Neve took me to a spot that I could ride along the ridge, with some gentle hills.  We were able to stop at an overlook, and then onward and upward –  and that’s the truth!  A steep climb took us to our first rest stop at Lavanda Café, where we were able to buy bike jerseys and lavender.  Continuing, we had a steep descent.

We’re getting good at these!  The final access to the town, was along a shared bike and pedestrian path.  Again, keeping the water on our left, we arrived at the town center.  Here we were able to browse, shop and have lunch.  Don’t know if I previously mentioned, Hvar is noted for its lavender fields.  Blooming time is end of June thru early July.  I can only imagine how beautiful this ride would be then!  Needless to say, the shopping included lavender products!

The afternoon ride took us back to Jelsa, where we came in with the boat.  We skirted the harbor, and again found ourselves on a pedestrian/bike path that led to a beach.  This is what our route sheet termed a “sandy” beach – well they’ve never been to Jones Beach!  Anyhow, the water is “bowl like”, shallow and supposedly warm and beautiful.  Some chose to swim, I think Craig fished (did I hear that right) but Lenny and I of course chose to return to Stari Grad.  Anything to give us a leg up!!  There were 2 options back – an uphill and an easier – can you guess which one we took?  We doubled back through the park, and stopped at the coffee/gelato bar for a tea and café before heading back – good use of the bathroom, too! 

The return took us passed vineyards, olive groves and of course the lavender!  It is harvest time and although some of the vineyards looked picked over, we did see a few areas of grape being picked…by hand!  Very different from back home!  The ride was exhilarating and no sooner did we get back, then the jack rabbits arrived!  And they stopped to swim!

Karen always seems to be in discovery mode after we get back to our hotels.  I’m so usually wiped, that it’s all I can do to get cleaned up and ready for dinner.  But we agreed to meet her and Conrad and climb to the fort.  We went at dusk, a perfect time, not too hot and not too crowded.  It was a pretty steep climb of switchbacks.  Luckily we were not on bikes!  The sunset was magnificent,

however, I didn’t make it to the top.  It was getting late and we did have a reservation.  So down we went and had dinner right outside the hotel at the Black Pepper, which is that restaurant that serves on the steps!  We, on the other hand asked to be seated on the terrace.  Dinner was great and as always, started with grappa.  Each course was enhanced with a different pepper…from Ecuador, Himalaya, Madagascar, pretty amazing.  The ending was a lava cake, served with 2 kinds of salt…not my thing, but everyone else was salivating!  Another great day!

Saturday, Oct 29^th, 2018

Our last ride!  Where did the week go?  Today’s ride would bring us back to Jelsa-I’m really liking that town!  We were shuttled to the bus station in Stari Grad where we would begin.  Even Stari Grad is feeling familiar!  The route would take us partially on the route we ended yesterday, with a low option (of which I took).  It took us through ancient Greek fields named Ager from the 4^th century BC.  Our guides told us that a bicycle race was happening in the area of Jelsa, and it was a fundraiser for local kids (maybe schools perhaps).  At one point along the way, kids were out cheering us on – they must’ve thought we were part of that group! 

The ride took us passed a nudist camp -  you should’ve heard the howling -  and finally into Vrbroska. Again, a waterside town, for our first rest stop.  It is situated on a canal, with a number of bridges.  Neve kept saying it was a “most romantic town”.

From here, it was a completely coastal ride to Jelsa.  I was amazed that we didn’t have to go back onto a main road- it was a beautiful ride…through marinas, parks and beaches.  The color of the water is nothing like I’ve ever seen.  Words don’t do it justice. 

  

As we approached Jelsa, the festivities of the bike race were apparent!  DJ booming music, colorful tees strung across the square, bikes everywhere, and throngs of people!  It was very exciting.  The number of kids participating was impressive – and parents – and toddlers and babies being pulled in those add-ons!  I was buying tees for my kids, but not sure of the sizing.  I tried to talk to a kid about Tyler’s age to ask what size he was…to no avail…he gave me a blank stare!  Through pointing and gesturing, I think I got the right thing!

We were to meet Neve at 12:30 so we had time for coffees/teas/gelato/and drinks!  It was great being in that square and people watching!

We continued through town, in the direction of yesterday’s beach.  BUT- at the fork, we went left and there was Lada, on the cliffside, where a picnic was prepared for us.  Yummy!  Both Neve and Lada are really outstanding guides.  I’ve been on a number of these trips, and I feel like they are having just as good a time as we are!

The return to Stari Grad would bring us on the same route as yesterday (or of course a second hilly option) so I opted to take the van back.  I was DONE!  I was amazed at Lenny’s tenacity.  His stamina is to be applauded!  

Tonight would be our final dinner together.  Being Glen’s birthday, Jodie decided to have a cocktail party in their room before going to the hotel terrace for dinner.  Everyone contributed something, and Lenny appointed himself “party boy” and thus, did the shopping for junk.  We had olives, and chips, and pretzels, and he found popcorn! 

We were met on the terrace by Neve and Lada with a welcome cocktail – grappa with something else – doesn’t matter – I have to say – we all clean up pretty good!  Earlier, we had to choose our dinner choice – fish, meat or vegetarian.  I chose meat – and I have to confess, it was “mystery” meat.  Truth is, the food didn’t matter one iota.  The comraderie of this group is something special.  I got to know each one a little more and we’re talking about the next trip!

Mid-meal, a bottle of rose grappa appeared, a new flavor for us.  What a treat!  When dessert arrived, so did a cherry port- my kind of topper!  The yakking and laughing were off the charts!  It was like we needed to get it all in – I found out later, that Lenny was showing his clip of my Pyramid win to anyone who hadn’t seen it already!  We had speeches and toasts and lots of laughs.  Then I brought out “HEADS UP”.  Howling!!!!  After numerous hugs, kisses and promises to keep in touch, everyone put May 23, 2019 on their calendar for a reunion at Jodie and Glen’s!

Before turning in (we have an early departure tomorrow), I stood at the open window.  I had been doing this every night…the cacophony of music and people from the square and myriad restaurants was now familiar and welcoming.  The harbor lights twinkling, the palm trees rustling – just spectacular.  I really felt comfortable here in Croatia, particularly this island of Hvar.