Terranova

Saturday -Monday Nov 2-4

Having time before beginning our journey to Terranova, we opted to try the falls again.  Again, the winding roads and uphill climb!  Just as we got to the last ridge, the heavens opened up!  The same “ ranger” was there and told us again, that the trails were closed

 

 

 

He kindly let us use the bathrooms, took a few pics and a quick return to Quaglietta.  I tried to see Pupinella but she didn’t answer...c’est la vie, I tried. We had a cappuccino across from the piazza, where I got my first sfoglietella!  It was delicious I asked the owner where he got them and he said he makes them!  I’m impressed.  Next stop...TERRANOVA di POLLINO.

Planning to reach Terranova by 4:30, we were able to stop for a leisurely lunch.  So far, everywhere we stopped ( except for that tourist place in Florence), had been pretty good with great wine!

Time in Terranova is easy and laid back. We relaxed, walked, ate (fabulous dinners by Pino) and even got to shop the little stores.  Sunday morning the six of us walked to the cemetery.  It was shy of a mile, but the uphill return got me. We all went to church and Marie made friends with a little old lady in black...no teeth.  She plunked herself right next to Marie and began asking her questions. It was cute.  After church we went for coffee with Cinzino and Franco and Rosa.  Cinzino is a spry 84 yr old who gets a kick out of me. He calls me sunshine!  That night there was to be a feast, a civil one, making Terranova capital for a day.  An opportunity for the town to show off their talents and traditions...instrument making, pasta making, traditional dress...Cinzino said we would dance together that night...but Lenny doesnt dance he said to me.  Somehow I explained in Italian, that if I ever remarry, it will be to someone who dances!  I don’t know if I said it right but Franco and him thought it was pretty funny!

 

The weather turned funny, rain off and on so we stayed put.  By 4 we needed to get some air, so we walked through the rain drops to find a panini.  We heard music...parade we thought...3 guys...but they sounded great before they went into a bar!

We wound up staying in the piazza, people watching, and mingling with Cinzino, his son Antonio, listening to the music on the "squeeze box" and something like a bagpipe.

I found the following online and thought I'd include it.  Note the reference to a "celebrity chef".  I'd like to think it's Pino...after all, Margaret Thatcher did stay at his hotel, and he's been known to cook on a TV morning show, AND cook for film production teams, various celebrities and diplomats at embassies throughout Europe. 

Terranova is like a frontier town at the “end of the road” where Basilicata turns into Calabria in the vast and wild Pollino National Park.  Majestic mountains, alpine streams and lakes, and undisturbed wilderness are found here, the perfect place for outdoors lovers to enjoy hiking, kayaking, horse riding, climbing and mountain biking.  The forests are thick with chestnuts, beech and oaks, along with the pino loricato tree, the symbol of the national park.  The town has a tight cluster of houses furthering the impression of a frontier town.  But there is also a famous trendy restaurant here, too, with Basilicata’s “celebrity chef”.  Unfortunately, many of the town’s records were destroyed in a fire when the town hall was sacked and burned by briganti.

Surnames from Terranova di Pollino:  Tufaro, Genovese, Lufrano, Labanca, Golia, Dattoli, Lanza.

Monday, we went to San Paolo Albanese - nothing there - except a treacherous road to get there.  Then we went to the National Park as described above.  Livestock today was cattle!...grazing and minding their own business... looking at us like the intruders we were!

Back in Terranova, we went in search of lunch.  Marie and I were the pathfinders, to see if  Luna Rosa was opened.  It was, but what a crazy access... it's tucked into the side of the mountain.  Perhaps, Francesco is the celebrity chef - he had quite a number of photos of himself with prominent people...

Anyhow, here we had some dishes typical to the area that were delicious.  We felt a little sneaky because Pino would not be happy to learn we went there.  Thankfully dinner at Pino's is late and we'd have time to digest!!  Again...the wine!

Dinner for our last night was another extravaganza!  He really outdoes himself.  Cinzino came to say goodbye... it's always so sad... but we did assure them we'd probably return at some point next year.  Not sure when we'll fit it in, but the truth is, I'm just as comfortable and feel at home as Lenny does!

Early departure tomorrow - 5 am for Rome...last stop...an incredible journey!