Italy - June 9th - 22nd 2025

VENICE

This trip was a graduation gift for Ava - before going off to College (Arizona State Univ).  It was unlike any other Italian trip we had ever done.  It was a mix of family and touring - a great blend and an even greater way to let Ava know she has relatives and friends abroad!

Mon June 9 - we arrived in Venice and were transported to the main vaporetto (water bus and taxi stop) within walking distance of our hotel,  The Pellegrino and Commercio.  We had stayed there before (2010) and were content with the familiarity.  We were able to check in and then took a walk to find a pharmacy to replenish Ava’s cleanser that was confiscated at the airport!  Browsing the shops in that area, the collectibles from Murano caught my eye.  We lunched and then made our way to St Mark’s for a gondola ride.  We paid for one route, but then were taken back without seeing some purported things, and he told us that’s what we paid for!  Memories of the gondola ride we took with the kids in ’88.

Bus passes were purchased and we took a ride to the Giardini della Marinaressa.  La Nuova Perla was nearby so we walked there for dinner.  The spot was great - on the water, adjacent to a pretty bridge. Ava had a gigantic veal chop that was bigger than her head! The weather thus far was spectacular, warm but great for taking in the sights.  We bussed back to the hotel in hopes of getting over jet lag - for we had an early start the next morning!

June 10th - we met our guide for our tour of St Mark’s, the Doge Palace and the prison.  It was phenomenal and Ava was fully immersed.  I kept trying to parallel its history with our own - no comparison - we are such a young nation.  It would be a lifelong endeavor to learn about the history of each and every city we visited.  When the tour was over, we had tickets for the Campanile.

There was an elevator - I don’t remember that from 2002!  We weren’t up there for the actual ringing of the bells, but the views were dynamite.  Ava became our official photographer for the trip - a job I was happy to be relieved of!

We sought out lunch and I suggested going to Harry’s Bar.  For all the times we’ve been to Italy, we’ve never stopped in.  Harry’s has been around for 93 years and it has been declared a national landmark by the Ministry of Cultural Heritage in 2001.  Over the years it became a place where artists, writers and actors would hang out - among them, Katharine Hepburn, Gary Cooper, Frank Lloyd Wright, Peggy Guggenheim and Hemingway.  Half way through lunch, I realized that Justin Hartley was sitting at the next table!!  I got so excited - of course neither Ava nor Lenny knew who I was talking about!  I managed to get a snapshot of him (profile) without being the “ugly American”!

After lunch, it was imperative for Ava to see the Rialto Bridge so we bussed along the Grand Canal.  The bridge was crowded and super busy, but Ava managed to walk up one side and down the other. 

On our way back we stopped at the Basilica Santa Maria della Salute (health).  It was constructed to celebrate the end of the plague in 1631.

It is a spectacularly domed baroque church with a unique octagonal design & sacristy housing 12 works by Titian.  The flying buttresses are not typical.  They appear as concentric circles - so the church is very distinctive.

Leaving the Basilica behind, we made our way back to the main vaporetti stop to find our way to Murano - time for some souvenir shopping.  We were hoping to see some glass blowing but were unsuccessful.  However, the bracelets and earrings were very enticing!

As I write this, I’m realizing that we really packed 10lbs of activity in a 5lb bag!  The plan for this evening was to go to St Mark’s Square and listen to the competing orchestras at the various  restaurants.  Dinner was had on the back alley where we had lunch on the first day, stopping to buy some glass trinkets that I couldn’t find on Murano.  Off to the piazza, for music and sweatshirt buying!  Again - an early night cause we had an early train to catch - after an even earlier floating bus ride!

VICENZA

Sleepily arriving at the train station, we made our way to a caffe/bar for some caffeine and sustenance.  Being well sated we found the track that we’d be leaving from and patiently waited for our train to Padua.  Fortunately it was an uneventful ride, and we had an on time arrival - now to find Lino, Lenny’s cousin.  We found him and it was great to see him again. He drove us to Lucca, where he and Rosella live.  It wasn’t a long drive and he was pointing things out along the way.  Our rooms were not ready at the hotel (since check-in is later in the afternoon), so Lino took us on a “forced march” of his home town.  

Vicenza is a city in the Northeast region of Italy.  It’s known for its beautiful buildings designed by 16th century architect Andrea Palladio.  Some of these include the Palladian Basilica and the Palazzo Chiericati, now home to an art gallery.  Also by Palladio is the Teatro Olimpico which replicates an outdoor theatre, indoors!  Of course, he wanted us to see it all so march on we did!

We stopped for lunch to enjoy some pizza (unlike anything here in NY) and eggplant parm.  Then on the road again.  Feeling fatigued, I finally asked that we return to the hotel.  We did with a plan to meet him and Rosella for dinner.

They took us outside of town to a restaurant nestled in the mountain.

On the way we passed parks and trails of which they hike on a regular basis.  We sat outdoors, under a leafy canopy and enjoyed our meal.  Conversation was ongoing and I was quite happy to understand and be understood.  Lino speaks English but was a little reluctant, and Rosella speaks not a word, but we made it work!

They left us off with a plan to be picked up tomorrow, for a ride to Verona - home to Romeo and Juliet!

VERONA

With each passing day, the weather got warmer…make that hotter.  Summer was in full swing.  Lino picked us up early and off to Verona we went.  Verona is a medieval town along the banks of the Adige river.  As previously stated it is the setting for Shakespeare’s Romeo and Juliet.  A 14th century residence with a balcony overlooking a courtyard is said to be “Juliet’s House”.  There were little signs indicating the way, but to me it seemed we were just following the crowds - and there were crowds.  Very unlike my visit there in 1966!  There was actually a roped off area in the cobblestone road to create a line into the courtyard!  Back in the day, a tour bus dropped us off, we went into the courtyard, took our photos and got back on the bus - NOBODY else was there!  Today, there were young girls dressed in 15th century Renaissance garb, happy to pose with visitors!  It was a madhouse - we took our photos and hightailed it out of there.  Then we had to find Lino - he didn’t join us for that!  By now it was well passed noon and sweltering.  Once we rejoined Lino, we stopped for lunch and lots of water.  A note about Italy (perhaps all of Europe) - you must request ice if you want it.  At this point I NEEDED it, so I got in the habit of always asking for it when ordering.  The funny thing is, sometimes you get a glass filled, or a bowl with 4 or 5 cubes - it’s not in their DNA to drink cold liquid!

After lunch we walked the Città Antica through the current market square and into to the old market area (Corte Mercato Vecchio), making our way to the river.  We stopped at the Palazzo della Ragione for a photo op and spent some time admiring the architecture of the Chiesa di Santa Maria Antica.  Before our sojourn back to the car, we had a gelato - mmm delicious! 

Fortified to face the heat, we made our way back (many miles). Lino wanted us to stop at Verona’s 1st century Roman Amphitheater which now hosts concerts and large scale opera performances.  I actually had a fleeting moment of wanting to return next summer for one of those! 

The line to enter (not sure if you needed a ticket) was still quite long so I opted out.  Lino said it was actually più bella on the outside than on the inside, so we only walked by.

Arrived back in Vicenza for a bit of respite before walking the town again with both Lino and Rosella.  After a typical dinner, we continued our “passeggiata” (walk) for gelato and taking in the pretty lit sights.

Saying our good byes to Rosella, we made a plan for early pick-up back to Padua.  Next stop - Florence!

FLORENCE / LUCCA/PISA

Lino picked us up early for the drive back to Padua to get the train to Florence.  Our tickets were bought in advance, but we weren't seated together.  Since there wasn't enough room for our bags on the luggage rack, I stood for most of the way, with bag between my feet.  Once at the Florence station (Firenze Santa Maria Novella) we had to find our way to the transfer for the airport, for it was there that we would rent a car.  By now the heat was sweltering and we had to figure out how to buy the tickets and where exactly was the airport transport.  Ava and I remained on the curb while Lenny investigated and thankfully, the "tram" arrived and we boarded without incident.  We spoke with a young woman who wasn't sure if she was on the right bus - and I assured her it was right - the blind leading the blind!  Anyhow, we arrived at the airport, and found the next area of waiting - waiting for the shuttle bus to take us to the rental car areas.  We approached as a bus was leaving, so I figured since we're here, we'll be first on the next one - hah!  So many people arrived, I never thought we'd even get on, but on we did.  We were brought to a big common area that we had to figure out - looking for Europa-car.  Finding it, I left Lenny to stay on the line, while Ava and I tried to find a bit of shade and a seat - the heat was brutal.  We found the car and began our adventure to Lucca. 

Lucca is a city on the Serchio river in Italy’s Tuscany region. It’s known for the well-preserved Renaissance walls encircling its historic city center and its cobblestone streets. Broad, tree-lined pathways along the tops of these massive 16th- and 17th-century ramparts are popular for strolling and cycling. Casa di Puccini, where the great opera composer was born, is now a house museum, though we didn't tour it. 

We were staying inside the walls in an ABNB.  There was no car access, so we had to park in a garage outside the village.  Dragging our luggage along the cobblestones was no picnic, but we were rewarded with an air-conditioned apartment!  It was quite lovely, complete with washer/dryer combo!  We settled in and found the "mercato", then attempted to do our laundry.  Either we as Americans are spoiled, or very dumb because we couldn't figure out how to do a wash in under an hour, let alone get it dried!  We gave up and strolled to find a place for dinner.  Lo and behold, the restaurant we chose happened to be right next door to a laundromat!  Lenny hurried back to the apartment, and in-between courses, I managed to get all of it done!  As it turned out, we would go back a few more times so that we wouldn't need to do it again!

Saturday we had an early meet with our guide, Susanna, back at the train station!  Florence, on the Arno is the capital of the Tuscany region, and home to many Renaissance masterpieces and architecture.  I was excited to share my love of this city with Ava.  Susanna led us around the entire city, telling of the history and lore of many of the public spaces. 

The heat was oppressive, so I bought a hand held battery operated fan that we shared for the duration of the entire trip!  We strolled the city seeing points of interest - the piazza and the  loggia (called the Loggia of the Signoria) with the  many statues - probably the most famous, The Rape of the Sabines.  Susanna used a more politcally correct term, but of course, I can't remember it now!  

We lunched in a little restaurant known to Susanna where we indulged in plenty of ICE and water.  Our adventure continued with a stroll to the Arno river to the Ponte Vecchio, with shops built along the whole length.  I've always referred to it as the Ponte D'Oro (bridge of gold) because of all the jewelry shops.  Susanna explained how the Medicis (Renaissance family that owned and controlled everything) didn't want to walk the streets with the common people, so an entire enclosed corridor (Vasari Corridor) was built from the Piazza della Signoria (the heart of political life) through the Ufizzi gallery (considered the greatest art museum of the world), across the Arno, and continuing to the Pitti Palace - home of the Medici Family.

After our trek across the bridge to the Pitti Palace, we returned for our visit to the Duomo.

We had timed entry to the Duomo (Cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore) where we then visited the underground excavation of former churches and crypts.  The dome istself, completed in the 15th century, is an engineering marvel.  It is the creation of Fillippo Brunelleschi.  Spectacular to behold.  

Onward to the pièce de résistance -our viewing of Michelangelo's DAVID! - My favorite!  I was excited to share this with Ava.  Susanna gave us plenty of time to ogle "him" and ogle, we did!

By the time we made it back to the train station to retrieve the car, we were so hot and exhausted, we decided to hit an "autogrille" on the way back to Lucca for some panini for dinner later.  We were very appreciative of the AC in the apartment, where we got comfy, tucked in, ate our sandwiches and played cards (OS!)  - best night EVER!

Sunday morning our guide came to the apartment to take us on a walking tour of Lucca.  We began on the walls of the old city - of course, the walls were built to keep out the marauders, namely the Romans.

We walked passed the many churches - many for such a small area, stopped to shop for some silk scarves, and generally, took in the feel of its historical and cultural memory, which it carefully preserves.  As an aside, Lucca is known for its' silk AND toilet paper!  Both of which are made there - sooo we decided to bring home a little of both!!

After taking a lunch break, we followed Marco in our own car to Pisa - another favorite!  Pisa straddles the Arno just before it empties into the Ligurian Sea.  The iconic tower was already leaning when it was completed in 1372.  An interesting fact about Pisa, is that it used to lie seaside until the 15th century, when build up of silt from the Arno river completely cut the city off from the receding shoreline!  Pisa, too, is medieval, surrounded by walls, still visible is some areas.  Pisa is the birthplace of Galileo Galilei and the University there is quite prestigious.

The leaning tower is in the Piazza del Duomo, also called the Square of Miracles.  In addition to the bell tower, the square contains the Duomo,   

Baptistry and camposanto or cemetery.  After strolling the grounds, it was finally time for our "timed entry" - unlike some 60 years ago, when me, Joey and my father climbed to the top of the tower!

Replete with heat, exhaustion,  history and a bit of gelato, we returned to Lucca to the comfort of our domicile.  We decided to seek dinner in the major piazza, shaped in the manner of the coliseum.  I think back in the day, a minor coliseum stood there.  After ordering, Ava decided to try to find the bread shop we had stopped in earlier, to try the specialty. Buccellato Taddeucci situated in the heart of Lucca, is known for its"Buccellato", its famous iconi sweet bread.   She managed to find her way there and back with plenty of time before dinner arrived!  The bread is an artisan version of cinnamon raisin, which is known throughout the area, and as it's brochure proclaimes - it's loved around the world! It was delicious!

SESSA  AURUNCA/NAPLES/POMPEI

The next morning, we left Lucca early, making our way to Sessa Aurunca, a town in the province of Caserta.  It is located on the south west slope of the extinct volcano of Roccamonfina.  Our accommodations here were arranged by Mimmo (Domenico), Lenny's cousin.  But more of that later.  

It was about a 5 hour ride, so I wanted to be creative of where we'd stop for lunch.  While driving we passed signs for exits to Bagno Reggio.  I was reminded of going there in 2010, so a quick reference to my "Blog" and I realized it would be the perfect place to stop, just as we were approaching the exit!  We quickly put it into WAZE and made our way there.

When I first saw Bagno Reggio in 2010, it reminded me of Mt St Michele in France - a town perched atop a mountain, accessible only at low tide.   Bagno Reggio's access however, was via a 2 mile bridge.  Perhaps the bridge spanned water at one time, but now it just covers terrain. 

We found a restaurant that was housed in a cave!  Don't remember what we ordered, but it was cool and a great respite from the heat!

Now for the walk back!  We eventually got back to the car, and made our way to Sessa Aurunca.  It seemed that all the roads leading to our hotel were closed and ripped up, and we were going in circles.  Lenny finally called Mimmo, and with me holding the phone's camera up to the windshield, he directed us to out destination - quite harrowing!  The town dates back to 337 BC so of course, streets were not very car friendly.  Parking for the hotel was below the street and was accessed from behind.  Lenny left Ava and I in the car, while he went to check us in...no reservation in our name.  He got that straightened out, and returned to us making a plan for getting the luggage and us into the hotel.  The hotel was surrounded by scaffolding!  The lobby was dark and appeared not even to be open!  Turns out we were the ONLY guests staying there - and it was hot!!!  Upon entering our room, I immediately avowed I didn't want to stay there - that didn't go over so well!  Lenny found the air-conditioner controls (though it NEVER got below 74) and stay, we did.

Mimmo and wife Louisa came to the hotel to take us to dinner.  It was wonderful seeing them again.  Luisa tried to speak a little more English where she never attempted to in the past.  She helped me with pronunciation and we had a ball.  Ava and her really hit it off!  So much so, that they helped themselves to lemons that were growing in abundance in the restaurant garden!

Next morning, early departure for Pompeii.  We arrived in plenty of time for our tour, so we stopped at the cafe for a bite before meeting our guide, Paolo.  He met us there and with him, we "skipped" the line and entered the archeologic park upon opening.

Pompeii, near the Bay of Naples, sits at the bottom of Mt Vesuvius, which erupted and buried the entire city in 79 AD.  Paolo did an excellent job of taking us to primary sites before getting over crowded.  I was very glad I had my little fan, as it was excruciatingly hot.  Evidence of this thriving city was a wonder to behold eg: frescos, ruts of carriages in the stone roadways, bits of architecture and of course the bodies that were uncovered whole.  It took my breath away.

After Pompeii we drove into Naples proper to meet Mimmo for lunch.  We arrived on the outskirts of the city into a parking garage.  After we heard from Mimmo, we took a cab into the city to meet him where he works.  We met him at the Opera House, across from the Galleria, or market place.  We had a typical lunch (pizza) and then he took us on a "forced march". We went to the fort, San Ferdinando,  churches and truly I can't remember the half of it!  We ended by the harbor, where I was jealous of the kids jumping off the rocks into the harbor! 

We cabbed back to the car, and returned to Sessa for a brief respite before meeting Mimmo and Louisa for dinner.

Dinner was at a local restaurant.  We had to negotiate the ripped up street that had given us so much angst the day before.  Conversation was in both English and Italian and we had a great time and lots of laughs.  We strolled back, as Louisa was giving us many facts about Sessa.  She and Mimmo are so proud of their little city and Naples, that they have ardently requested that we return! 

We made plans to meet Mimmo in the morning for a brief walk through of Sessa, but we had to say goodbye to Louisa.

Mimmo met us and took us through Sessa pointing out buildings of interest and giving us a bit of history.  It was bittersweet, since we were anticipating the long drive to Terranova di Paolino.  

We left for Terranova early, with the intention of stopping at Paestum,  a national archaeological park in Salerno.  It houses the archaeological finds of the ancient Greek city of Poseidon/Paistom (600BC) ergo, Paestum.  The ruins (a Unesco site) here are the only Greek ruins on Italy's mainland and the best preserved.

Different from other ruin sites and male dominated temples, all three major temples on this site were built in honor of female goddesses; The Temple of Hera I, Hera II and the Temple of Athena.  There is also the remains of a Roman amphitheatre - the Romans conquered Paestum in 273 BC leaving behind their mark.

We spent time strolling the grounds, and enjoying photo ops before finding a lunch spot.  Then on the road again to our destination and family waiting for us!

TERRANOVA/QUAGLIETTA

My excitement began to build, as we made our way up the mountain to Terranova.  I was anxious for Ava to see the old homestead as well as meet the people that are so special to us.  We arrived and were immediately greeted by Pino and Mina.  Lenny and I had were shown to "our" room and Ava was in the "purple" room - compete with little balcony!

We were looking forward to our time in Terranova to be a day or two of relaxing and catching our breath after the whirlwind of the last 10 days. And it exceeded our expectations!  We drove Ava through town, pointing our "our" local points of interest - the chapel of the Madonna,  Cinzino's bridge,  

 the red bridge, and of course, common fountain where locals used to do their laundry!  Pino lavished scrumptious dinners on us and we were always joined by Franco - (Mimmo's dad).  Our last night, Pino and his family joined us for a delicious repast.  Ava and Alessandro sat next to each other and his English is perfect.  He invited Ava to hang with him in town after dinner.  It's always great being with family and friends, be it at the beginning or end of the trip.  It's like coming home!

We left Terranova for Rome with a quick stop in Quaglietta so Ava could see where her great Grandpa Vito was born.  We took a fast walk up to the castle, and a drive to Rocky's. 

Sadly, not much else of interest in my town.  We did stop at the negozio for some remembered tarals. We were too early for our meet with Carmelina in Oliveto Cittrà, so we went to Senerchia for a coffee and gelato.  

Entering Oliveto, we got turned around (again - we never seem able to find her house!), we called her and she found us with Sasha in tow.  We were quite surprised to find she had put out quite a lunch spread for us!  Mario joined us for lunch - super sweet.  Carmelina brought us up to date on all the goings on in the town and her participation in the upcoming feasts and celebrations.  Time to leave - our last road trip of the journey - back to Rome and one more day of being a tourist!

ROME

We arrived at our final destingation - The Hilton at the Fiumicino Airport late enough to check in, settle in and find dinner.  The hotel was hopping, and dinner was a bust - service slow and dinner even slower!  It was so bad, they comped us a caprese salad while we waited.  I think we were happy to just get to the room and crash - early morning coming up!

We met Cynthia (our guide from '19) at the Colesum.  We had early timed entry tickets, and it was, as always, phenomenal.  It just blows me away that something that was built between 72-80 AD could still have such an enduring effect on the people of Rome and of course to the million visitors.The Colosseum is the largest ancient amphitheater ever built and is a symbol of the city. It was constructed by the Flavian dynasty, and hosted gladiator combats, animal hunts, public executions, and other spectacles for over 500 years.  

Cynthia explained about the life of a gladiator (or loss of one) and how they were committed to the arena and were housed nearby.   

                                           

Onto the Forum...Cynthia first took us to the museum, which was a welcome respite from the heat.  The forum was the center of day to day life in Rome...the site of triumphal processions and elections; the venue for public speeches and criminal trials.  Additionally, it was the marketplace. Ruins of several important ancient government buildings remain and again, absolutely awe inspiring.

Upon exiting the forum, we decided to stop for lunch before heading over to the Pantheon and Trevi.  We ate close by, finding an outdoor restaurant with "misters"!  I couldn't get enough!  Not wanting to walk the three miles, I strongly suggested we take a cab - and I was not overruled!  

The Pantheon is an ancient 2nd century Roman temple and, since AD 609, a Catholic church called the Basilica of St. Mary and the Martyrs. It is perhaps the most famous, and architecturally most influential, rotunda.  It boggles the mind, that the early Romans had such know-how!  What's interesting about this rounda, is the fact that it was built with a hole (oculus), allowing the sun to pour in.  Cynthia was explaining the phenomenon of the summer solstice...the exact day we were there to observe it!  The oculus creates a  distinct, large circle of light on the floor equal in size to the actual opening.   It was very exciting!  This occurrence lends credence to the Pantheon's function as an astrological observatory and a symbolic structure connected to cosmic and imperial themes.

From there, Trevi - of three coins in the fountain fame.  We of course threw our euro over the mob of people hoping that they reached the fountain.   Visitors were actually being held at bay by security and allowed entrance intermittently.  No way were we waiting for that... so, watching our coins fly, we then left for the last leg of our adventure...Piazza Navona...and the long awaited tartufo!

 

The Piazza Navona sits on the site of a first century stadium, of which there is little left.  In the 17th century it became the showcase for Baroque architecture and sculptures.  It is famous for its Fountain of the Four Rivers, in front of the church of St Agnes.   The fountain was commissioned for Pope Innocent X, whose palace was in the square.  

The rivers represent the four continents where the pope's authority had spread - the Nile, Africa, the Danube, Europe, the Ganges, Asia, and the Rio de la Plata - the Americas. There is also an excavation site that I have never seen, and was hoping to visit on this trip.  However, after cooling off with a tank full of ice water and a tartufo, I was ok to pass on it - next time!

We said our good-byes to Cynthia, found a cab and made our way back to the hotel.  Quite a jam-packed day.  The lounge was available to us, so we hung out there, playing cards and knoshing on the tidbits provided.  When it started to get crowded, we went back to our room, me thinking that we were passing on dinner - HA - silly me!  Ava and Gpa wanted to eat, but I remained in the room because I didn't want to deal with the  sub-par service of the night before.  Unbeknownst to me, the two cohorts cabbed to the seaside town of Fiumicino proper, and had a delectable meal!  

The best part of staying at the Hilton, is that you can walk directly to your gate on the day of departure.  It's always bittersweet leaving, but it was truly a remarkable two weeks.  With any luck the gods of Trevi will honor our coin tossing and allow us to return once again to the magic that is Italy!