Sunday May 29, 2016

Went to mass at the cathedral of the Buon Pastore (Good Shepherd).  The mass was said in Basque and sounded more like Portugese.  The first communicants were assembling for the next mass and all the little girls wore long dresses.  The boys looked nautical...which I'd really like to find out the significance.  They wore white pants with navy jackets, epaulettes, gold braiding and brass buttons.  In addition to first communion hysteria, the woman of the parish were creating a floral arrangement on the sidewalk using rose petals, and different types of greenery.  I couldn't make out the inscription, but it was beautiful.

Returning to the hotel,people were beginning to line the streets anticipating a parade.  It may have had something to do with it being the feast of Corpus Christi.  Anyhow we had to check out, get bags ready and wait for our lift to Pamplona. Karen had arranged for a driver.  Some of the group ventured out to see the festivities and have lunch.  Our ride was prompt and we and we got to the Pamplona train station where we met up with the other 8 that would make up the bike trip.

Rosita, our group leader, found us, and we packed up the van yet again, and took off for Roncavalles.  This would be the start of our Camino (pilgrimage).  Rosita was born in Bologna so I got to talk a little in Italian and she of course calls me Lucia.

The trip to Roncavalles was pretty windy and steep, with hairpin turns.  I started to get a little nervous  since we would be biking this same road on Monday.  The weather had been rainy on and off all day, but when we got to our destination, the sun broke through.

The little village of Roncavalles and is the site of a battle there when Charlemagne's army under the command of Roland, was attacked and overcome by Basque soldiers in AD 778.  For you literary buffs, this battle became the inspiration for one of France's most revered literary poems, The Song of Roland, written in the 11th century.
Our lodging would be at the Hotel Roncavalles, a restored 18th century building adjoining the church.  The rooms were modern, but the common areas were low-lit, stone walls.

We met Iago, our other guide, and were fitted for our bikes. 

We then had some time to explore the environs, get our Camino passport, and check things out.  Crossing the courtyard of the hostel, pilgrims were coming and going.  Some were just plum tuckered out, sitting in the square, nursing their feet.  We picked up our "credentials", bought a map and proceeded to the church for a look see.  I was with Lenny and a few others.  As I was lighting a candle and saying a prayer for safe passage, I heard singing.  When I looked around, I was alone.  I followed the singing, right to a procession.  People and priests came in (via a garden? Burial place?) singing,  carrying the Blessed Sacrament under a canopy.  We had a short Benediction, then the priest said a prayer for th pilgrims.  He motioned for the pilgrims to stand and then he said a prayer in multi languages.  It was beautiful, and the incense didn't hurt!  After the blessing, strangers came together, held hands and swayed to a song in I'm assuming Basque.  It was quite moving.  We were so happy to have witnessed this  beautiful  tradition.

Dinner was set up for the group, and once again the local wine was enjoyed by all!  Early night, early call.  Tomorrow, on the road back to Pamplona!