Tuesday & Wednesday June 7-8

Sitting in the airport lounge, this is my final entry, logging the events of the last 2 days of our pilgrim journey.
 

Tuesday dawned chilly and foggy, yet again.  As per the night before, we were divided into 2 groups – the riders, and the church-goers.  The church-goers had a little bit of a reprieve on startup time, but we were anxious to get going, so we would have prime seats for the botafumeiro (incense burner).

 

We arrived in the beautiful medieval city of Santiago, cobblestone streets, and a mix of Roman, Gothic and Baroque buildings.  We’d be staying at the Hotel Monumento San Francisco.  This hotel is a converted 13^th century convent, adjoining the church of the same name.  Contemporary stained glass windows combine with the stone masonry of the original structure, to give it a feeling of quiet contemplation.  After dropping off luggage and bikes, we strolled to the cathedral, anxious to reserve our place for Mass.

 

The Santiago Cathedral boasts the remains of St James, in the reliquary beneath the main church.  The focal point of the main altar is the huge incense burner.  Our tour leader had arranged a mass for our group on Tuesday evening.  This was cancelled with no explanation, hence, the reason we had to attend the early one.  Knowing that this noon-day mass would be well attended by pilgrims and tourists, I was happy to forego any sightseeing at this time.  Iago, however, wanted to point out all the cathedral had to offer.  So he took us in small groups, while the group left behind had the privilege of reserving seats – something I’ve never been comfortable with.  Noon was fast upon us, and the organ began.  The clergy entered in procession, wearing red vestments.  Two bishops, and a number of priests were the celebrants.  The one bishop was from Guatemala, and receiving some sort of commendation.  We realized later, that this might have been the reason for the cancellation of the evening mass.  The bishop welcomed all pilgrims in many languages, much like the blessing at the start of our journey in Roncavalles.  The other priests, said the prayer of the faithful in their own languages.  It was very impressive, moving and faith filled. 

 

Before the final blessing, was the moment we were waiting for.  Eight men entered the altar area and lowered the botafumeiro to prepare it with incense.  The organ reached a crescendo, and it was releaed and swung across the naves of the cathedral.  There are no words to describe this tradition.

It should be said, that at some point during the mass, the doors are closed and locked so no further tourists can enter.  In fact, an announcement was made, that if you were not there for mass, you had to leave.  Now imagine, 800 years ago, pilgrims packed into this cathedral for mass.  Months on the road, with no showering… maybe that’s how the tradition started, do you think?  The incense dispersed the Eau-de-Euro (BO)!  Anyhow, it was beautiful!!

When Mass was over, I felt spellbound.  I think it safe to say, that all of us were overwhelmed.  I didn’t want to leave the sanctuary of the church, but it was time to move on – hoping I’d get a chance to linger a little later.  I hoped I’d have time to come back with Lenny after he arrived from the ride.

Iago found us a place to have lunch, off the beaten path.  He hinted at a surprise for us later.  What could it be?  Our smaller group got even smaller as we went our own ways.  Antoinette, Bob and I decided to check in to the hotel, while the others meandered those great cobblestone streets and shopped.  By the time we checked in, checked out our rooms and the pool, the riders returned. The bike ride was totally on the Camino, and Lenny said it was no harder than the other days.  Everyone seemed happy with the choice they had made.

We were told to meet in the lobby at 4:45, for the surprise.  Apparently, the powers that be, felt the need to compensate us for the cancelled evening ceremony.  We would have a private tour of the roof of the cathedral, by the director himself!

The group met at the entrance to the cathedral museum, and were taken up to the balcony area of the nave.  This section is closed to the public.  The director gave us some explanations as to the various icons used in the church (the lamb in particular) and allowed us to peruse.  In this area, are stored very large figures (important townsfolk) used in processions on July 23^rd – the feast day of Santiago.  The figures are placed upon the shoulders of the participants – it reminded me of Mardi Gras figures.

 

We then proceeded up another few flights of stone hewn, spiral steps, to the rooftop or the cubiertas, the granite steps of the Cathedral roofs.  The views of the city below were magnificent!  The Director explained about various restorations and additions over the last few hundred years, and even showed us an oculus window where the botafumeiro had come crashing through in 1622 due to frayed ropes!  The early Pilgrims had made this same 100-foot climb in Medieval times to burn their travel worn clothes at the foot of the Cruz dos Farrapos (Cross of Rags).  Precarious, but wonderful.

 

 

Dinner was a bittersweet affair, with plenty of toasts and laughs.  Bob had indicated the night before that he thought it was odd, that since we were on a pilgrimage, we never really started dinner with a blessing.  I took it upon myself to read the Beatitudes of the Pilgrim (that Karen had shared with me) as a blessing for our final night together:

 

 

      ·         Blessed are you, Pilgrim, if you discover that the “camino” opens your eyes to what is not seen.

·         Blessed are you, Pilgrim, if what concerns you most is not to arrive, as to arrive with others.

·         Blessed are you, Pilgrim, when you contemplate the “camino” and discover it is full of names and dawns.

·         Blessed are you, Pilgrim, because you have discovered that the authentic “camino” begins when it is completed.

·         Blessed are you, Pilgrim, if your knapsack is empty of things and your heart does not know where to hang up so many feelings and emotions.

·         Blessed are you, Pilgrim, if you discover that one step back to help another is more valuable than a hundred forward without seeing what is at your side.

·         Blesses are you Pilgrim, when you don’t have words to give thanks for everything that surprises you at every twist and turn of the way.

·         Blesses are you, Pilgrim, if you search for the truth and make of the “camino” a life, and of your life a “way”, in search of the one who is the Way, the Truth and the Life.

·         Blessed are you Pilgrim, if, on the way, you meet yourself and gift yourself with time, without rushing, so as not to disregard the image in your heart.

 

We said our goodbyes to those who’d be leaving early, and turned in for an early call to the airport.

Wednesday dawned bright and sunny and HOT as we made our way to Madrid.  We found the hotel, dropped off luggage, then cabbed into the city.  While some shopped at the Mercado, Antoinette and I remained at the Plaza Mayor for some light refreshment.  It’s wonderful how you can just hang out for hours at a time and not get thrown out!  Doesn’t take much getting used to this lifestyle!  We were rejoined by Karen and Jodie, then made our way to the vermouth bar.  MmmMmmm – have I not mentioned this specialty before?  Vermouth on tap, served with a twist of citrus.  Then back to the Mercado for a light supper.  The choices were vast and numerous.  I had fruit, not able to look at another piece of fish, dried meat or cheese!  Jane and Darryl happened by, so the good-byes were said once again, with everyone looking forward to a reunion and promises of near future visits!