October 6th - 9th Terrenova di Pollino

Arriverderci, Cefalù… our adventure continues to Terrenova di Pollino...birthplace of Lenny’s father, Antonio. This quaint paese is on the mainland, so a ferry across the straits of Messina was necessary. The road trip was about 3 hours with rest stops along the way. The harbor area was bustling and we found our way quite easily. I bought the tickets ( uno Opel Vivare, con 8 Personno)...that’s the car with 8 people. Pat on the back for that one! It really was no different from our ferry rides across the Sound to Connecticut, and the amenities were great...Chris got fresh from the oven croissants! As we progressed on the autostrada, we anxiously watched for signs of Terrenova. Then began the uphill climb! Terrenova is tucked up high in the mountains, nestled in the national park, in the area of Basilicata.

 

No sooner had we parked, And Pino was there...solid embracing for everyone! Introductions were made, and of course, a drink! It was like coming home. We found our rooms and settled in. Lenny and I made our way to the kitchen for some tea and coffee, and Chris and Dan walked the steep steps to the promenade and happened upon Cinzino. Cinzino is an 83-year-old cousin who is so spry, we call him the “Italian Leprechaun”!

Dinner, at 8, was a fabulous presentation. Pino is a renowned chef and presents each course with aplomb! Can’t remember all that was prepared for us, but suffice it to say that “culinary delight” doesn’t do it justice!

 

 

Our plan was to meet Cinzino at 8 am for a “Passeggiata”. This walk took us out of town and up to the cemetery. Here we saw the old family markers as our guide explained who everyone was. Talk about immersion... we were beginning to understand more and make ourselves understood, though I know my “ tenses” and pronouns were not always correct. Back at the hotel, Pino had a lovely continental breakfast waiting for us. Feeling sated, we ALL went to church. We, the Americans, were ogled! Being Lenny’s birthday, Mina made a cake to die for.

 

Basically, our time in Terrenova was spent in total relaxation...walking, greeting townspeople, visiting with family, having a coffee or aperol spritz and anticipating Pino’s next extravaganza! On Monday Cinzino walked us down the mountain to the site of “his” bridge leading out of town...quite a hike. Along the way, we picked figs, and grapes. By the end of our trek, Cinzino’s pockets were stuffed with apples he collected along the way! After our return, Chris, Dotty and John shopped for lunch stuff. We packed up and went to the park for a picnic. The weather wasn’t very cooperative, but it was still beautiful. We stopped by a spring - acqua tremolo - horses roaming free from nearby stables...hiking trails...all good stuff.

Pino was creating a special dish, requested by John...pasta Amitriciano. Pino allowed us gals in the kitchen to help prepare. He is so organized and of course, we had wine to enhance the preparation. FYI- the pasta was great!

Tuesday morning dawned amid emotional goodbyes. We assured Cinzino et al that we’d be returning. We’re actually planning a comeback with the entire family...30 of us, in 2020! Now- onto Ventotene!

 Tues Oct 10 - 13

We found our way to Formia, where we would get the ferry to Ventotene. But first, we had to find the rail station, to drop Dotty and John off. They were going to Rome for a few days then would be leaving for NY.

With our bags bulging with laundry, we attempted to find a laundromat, but to no avail. So we made our way to the Castello Miramar.

At first glance, beautiful. Upon closer inspection, you could tell that it was eons since anything had been done. But for one night it was fine...the view was worth it! Unfortunately, we arrived when most things were closed...what else is new. So now we had to go down the mountain (it seems all our residences were up a mountain, on switchbacks. Our van being huge, this was not an easy task!), and find lunch. We had to backtrack a bit, but did ok. Our plan was to meet Lino later for dinner at the hotel, so we just vegged for the afternoon.

The arrangements for our stay in Formia were made by Lino. It was so great to see him. He promised to come with us in the morning to insure our correct ferry passage, and van drop-off. The port was bustling and a little surprising. We had thought that the ferry service to Ventotene discontinued after the season. But it was a full onboard service.

Our arrival onto the island took our breath away…the harbor, the rocky abutments, the caves, - the color – we had come home!  We were met by a hotel person with a car…for the bags only.  We had to walk into town, UP a ramp, or switchback steps, across the piazza, to the other side…and there, cliffside, was the hotel Julia.  What a spot!  It seems this vacation should be called the Vacation of Vistas!

We settled in, and found a place for lunch.  The young waiter (from Bangladesh, speaking perfect Italian) brought out a big fish!  He was very encouraging for us to share it!  Lino had said we’d be eating a lot of fish!

What a meal!  It was delicious!  Chris was anxious to explore the tiny town in an effort to discover any existing remnants of Grandma’s family…Calano.  She went to the Municipal building (an old castle of some wealthy person).   She remembered where the house was that the family stayed in back in 1965.  Some of the shop keepers remembered the cousins…Massimo is in Rome and Chris reached out to him prior to the trip, but to no avail.  The owner of the book store might have been a long distant cousin!

A little about Ventotene – the name means “Having Wind” – and we experienced this!  During 300AD, Caesar Augustus banished his daughter there for instigating a revolt against him.  Years later, the Bourbon kings exiled criminals and prostitutes to the island, hoping that fresh air and farming would rehabilitate them!   

We thought we could learn about our ancestry by visiting the cemetery.  I decided to ask for directions of the “guy” at the hotel.  He told me where on the island it is, but we’d need a key to get in.  I asked him where would I have to go for that or who would I have to speak to…he held up a finger, rummaged in a drawer, then handed me the key!!!  I thought that was pretty funny.  The cemetery is on the other side of the island from the hotel… a series of ups and downs…what else is new?  We found the burial site of Grandma’s sister and brother and their respective spouses and dates.  A family tree is now in order!  There were no Ruggiero’s that we saw, but we do know that Grandpa’s brothers also came to the US but we didn’t find his parents…an eventful afternoon.

 

Lino arrived later and joined us for dinner…another sumptuous feast.

The day we spent with him, we took a walk to Zia Clotilde’s house, then down to the beach, then our curiosity got us…we went into a cave, and realized it was a walk through…that took us to the old port.  Quite interesting. Chris had arranged for us to take a tour of the Roman ruins of an ancient cistern.  Turns out, we were tag alongs of a school trip...kids from Anzio.  We saw them get off the afternoon ferry, when we saw Lino off!  After the Romans and Bourbons, the cistern was used by monks and later for prisoners and eventually slaves.  The kids on the trip were museum weary, but we found it all fascinating!  The guide spoke to us first, in halting English, letting us know that when the kids arrived she'd be full-boor Italian!  The actual teacher held back with us and interpreted for us.  It was great!  Our time in Ventotene was one of relaxed ambling, shopping (we found a great little place for trinkets and items particular to the island…hot air balloons being one of them!), stopping for gelato, cappuccino, or an Aperol Spritz!  Time spent there was idyllic!

The morning of the 13^th would see us leaving very early for the ferry back to Formia…with all of us hoping to return to the isle of wind again!