Saturday Oct 13th - 14

Ferries leaving Ventotene were scheduled for twice a day - early morning, or late afternoon.  Since we were to travel almost the entire length of the country, we opted for the early morning.  At the crack of dawn (actually pre-dawn) we made our way to the harbor for transport back to Formia. 

 

It was decided that rather than get right onto the highway, we would drive through Gaeta, and hopefully find breakfast.  (Lino had told us this was THE place for olives).  Turns out, Gaeta is another beautiful seaside town.  We found a coffee shop and then ventured to the overlook for a panoramic view of the city.  On to Perugia, via Assisi.

Arrival in Assisi proved to be a little tricky.  We parked in a lot at the far end of the walled city, which was unfamiliar to us.  The entrance within the walls at this point brought us in at the Cathedral of San Rufino.  This church dates from the 12th century, and contains the font where St Francis was baptised.  

We found a place for lunch and were happy to be out of the car.  At one point, an alarm was going off within the restaurant.  The waiter was walking around shrugging and shaking his head.  I finally realized, it was Christine, hitting the emergency button in the bathroom, instead of the flush!  We had a good laugh - onto the basilica!

The basilica complex is composed of two churches built one above the other, the lower one dating from 1228!  The upper one actually hoses the Saint’s tomb.

The lower basilica is decorated by  great painters and houses the reliquary of St Francis.  The upper basilica is adorned by Giotto’s frescos illustrating the life of St Francis.  

Next stop, Perugia, and a good night’s rest!

We left after breakfast, heading for Ravenna. Ravenna is in the northern Italian province of Emilia Romagna and is most famous for its extensive mosaics. The city was the capital of the Western Roman Empire from 402 until it collapsed in 476. Today, Ravenna’s is a world heritage site.   We had arranged for a walking tour, hoping to hit all the highlights!

The Basilica of San Vitale, and the Mausoleum of Galla Placida were essential mosaic stops.  Additionally, Ravena is the burial site o Dante.

Cole Porter visited Ravenna in 1920, and he was so inspired by the night sky mosaic in the mausoleum that he wrote his famous song, Night and Day.

We also had an opportunity to observe an artist at work, cutting stones into those tiny little pieces!

The interesting thing about Ravenna, is that it was originally a city like Venice, built on canals.  It was a prime port for the Romans and later invaders, but over the years, became a wayside.  At some point in time, the canals were filled in and there is no evidence that they ever existed!

Sunday Oct 14 - 17th

The romantic city of Venice is located in the Veneto region of Italy — one of the northernmost states. This ancient and historically important city was originally built on 100 small islands in the Adriatic Sea. Instead of roads, Venice relies on a series of waterways and canals. 

Walking into St Mark’s square gave my heart a lift - as it always does.  We had cocktails at the Florian and listened to the orchestra - ah! Bliss!  Lino and Rosella met us for dinner.  It was late, we were exhausted and we walked a “forced march” trying to find the restaurant he had made reservations at.  I finally called it, seeing how sluggish we’d all become!  We ate in a square over the Rialto from where our apartment was.  Food was good, and it was great to sit!  

Our apartment was down the street from Campo Maurizio.  The church had been converted into a music museum, where vintage string instruments were on display.  

Time was spent strolling the different areas, crossing the many bridges, shopping, eating, and drinking in the many sites and sounds of this beautiful city.  We even attended a string ensemble concert in the converted church of San Vidal!

Chris, Ann, Len and I took the vaporetta (boat/bus) to the islands of Murano and Burano - islands of glass and lace, respectively.  After watching a demonstration of glass blowing, we were browsing the gift shop - well I must’ve had “SUCKER” stamped on my forehead, because a young sales rep asked me if I’d like to see “upstairs”!  (not quite etchings!)  Meanwhile, an older gentleman, who looked like Caesar Romero, kept making eye contact and small talk with me.  So up I go, after gathering Ann and Chris.  By now, Lenny had already given up and was waiting for us outside.  Well, upstairs is where the good stuff is!  Chris decided on an item, and I went out to check on Lenny.  Now the guys downstairs, knew I was with someone upstairs who was making a purchase!  I come back in, and they are sitting around a table - Ann asks me if I want coffee or water - it was offered to them.  I say, how about champagne - next thing I know, Prosecco is being corked, and popped!  What fun!  Then Giacomo, our guy, tries to sell me on a purchase as a 2 for 1.  I considered it, but then thought better of it - by now, I’m blazing hot.  I’ve been up and down the stairs a number of times, fending off the guys downstairs.  I proceed to get out of my sweatshirt, without my shirt rising, while keeping away from the glass all around me - a neat trick!  Giacomo sees me - and he proceeds to undress as well!  We were rolling!  Bottom line - no purchase for me, but Chris was happy with hers.  Now we go downstairs, and Caesar stops me - I say I have to get to my husband.  He says, really - a husband?  Just then Chris points to Ann and says yes she has a husband and Caesar says - oh - I understand!  Laughing, Chris says, no not her!!! The husband is outside!  Giacomo took us out and arranged for their private boat to take us to the other side of the island where we would get the connecting boat to Burano.  All in all, it was a very interestingly, fun morning!

Burano, the isle of lace, is a pretty little island, of many colors.  The homes and canals are postcard perfect.  We strolled there, had lunch then made our way back to the apartment, via St Marks.  Found a spot for tonight - our last dinner in Italy.