SWITZERLAND - May 21st, 2024 - June 7th 

We arrived in Zurich after a non eventful flight and tended to arrival details.  After we procured the car, we decided to go the “Circle” for lunch since we had time before Karen and Conrad’s arrival.  Lunch was at the top of some building which would have been spectacular if the weather was better and we weren’t so tired.  Afterward, I actually read and slept in the car while Lenny prowled around.  Upon the arrival of Karen and Conrad, we went directly to  Brienz where we’d be spending the next week.

The drive to Brienz took us through mountain tunnels and over mountain passes to the beautiful, cozy town, where Conrad’s brother Andy and family now live.  It is here that the whole catalyst for this trip was born. A regional Schwingen fest was to be held in Brienz. Schwingen is Switzerland’s national sport, a type of wrestling.   Paxton (Obama), is the 16 year old son of Andy and Leah and was invited to participate in the competition. From a herdsman’s pastime to an elite sport, Schwingen is  fought as a duel between two physically powerful competitors and has its own rules, grips and throws.  More on this later…

The ABNB we stayed in, is owned and run by Leah.

It was perfect for our needs.  We arrived in the evening, and Leah had provided us with bread and assorted meats and cheese for a quick bite before falling off to sleep!

(My fellow companions took a stroll thru town)

Thursday, May 23rd

Thursday morning  was spent getting acclimated to our new digs and planning our adventure.  Switzerland is comprised of 26 cantons or states.  Brienz is in the canton of Bern.  The old resortown of Interlaken is not too far from Brienz and it, combined with Lauterbrunnen, Gimmewald and Mürren comprise the region known as Berner Overland.

We stopped in Lauterbrunnen to walk the Staubbach Falls.

Truly spectacular!  The day was a little rainy, but walking under the torrent got us wet anyhow! 

We then crossed over the river to Bramsiegg -  for a typical lunch overlooking the Brienzersee (Lake Brienz)  Lunch consisted of a traditional Rosti - to me it looked like a large serving of hash brown potatoes.  The portion is then topped with a choice of cheese, egg, meat, or combo of all.  As they say - when in Rome…it was quite yummy.  As we made our way down the mountain the sun emerged brilliantly so we stopped again at the Giessbach Nature Park. 

The trail led to another magnificent waterfall,

set against the backdrop of a grand hotel that looked like something from a storybook.

Upon our return to Brienz, Karen and I browsed the shop downstairs from our rooms, and then relaxed for the remainder of the afternoon.  When we decided to pursue dinner, we hadn’t realized how late it actually was.  The first two restaurants would’t seat us, though one waiter offered to make us fish and chips.  However, we collectively denied the offer and found our way to Aroma - an Italian pizza joint!  Surprisingly, the food was pretty good and we ended our 

first day quite sated.

Friday, May 24th

Despite the inclement rain, we made our way to Bern, capital of Switzerland.  We drove over  mountain passes on our trek to the “big city”.  Some of the passes were not yet opened due to lingering snow.

We were met with torrential rain upon exiting the train station (where we parked).  After waiting it out, we ventured through the arcade of covered shops and managed to make our way through the raindrops. 

In the chocolate shop, we inquired about a good lunch place.  The place recommended to us was listed in a travel book so off we went.  The Kornhaus, is a rathskeller below ground at Parliament square.

The food was delectable, but most memorable was the fact that I got lost upon my return from the rest room!  By the time we finished lunch, the sun had made an appearance heating and drying up the sidewalks, so much so it was as if it had never rained at all.  Initially, this seemed to be typical weather!

We made our way to the “Bear Pit”.  As we learned, the symbol of Bern is the bear - and three of them are housed in an enclosure near the river.  They actually have their own fishing channel next to the river!  They seemed happy enough, and are a true tourist draw!

    

Upon our return to Brienz, we scoped out the Schwingen fest grounds, and stayed for the yodeling.  It was not what I expected.  Different groups performed in the main tent, and the sound emanating from there was angelic!…particularly the children’s group.  We enjoyed drinks (baileys…mmm) and some eats…cheese of course!  

May 25th

Once again, early morning rain, so off to the festival in rain gear and equipped with umbrellas.  Pax, the 16 yr old, was paired with men.  This was expected since he was invited to the competition because he lived where it was being held.  He did really great, and was awarded one of the bells.  Schwingen is unlike US wrestling, in that a hand must remain on the opponent’s shorts at all times.  The shorts are unique and belted.  They are worn over pants, or sweats.  At times an opponent can be lifted right up by the pants - as Pax did to one of his adversaries.

Pax in blue

Shoulders must be pinned for a specific time, while the pants are still being held by the “thrower”.  Truth be told, we really enjoyed the day.  Turns out that Conrad also took part in the sport as a youngster and schwingen fests are still prevalent in Swiss communities in California where Karen and Conrad like to attend.

I was impressed with the prizes to be awarded.  First prize was a bull valued at $6000., second prize was a pregnant cow-first time with calf, called a Rind (I think) and third prize was a cow and calf.  I was blown away by the emphasis on the value and pride the country has as a whole for the farmers and livestock.  It gave me pause for thought.

We took a lakeside drive to Restaurant Q in Bergseeli, one town over from us.  Karen surprised me when we got home with a beautiful birthday cake.  A great day and great intro to SCHWINGEN! 

Sunday, May 26th

A hot, blistery day of Schwingen!  Today was the kids’ tournament.  Pax got to compete in this as well.  Friends of Karen and Conrad joined us, and it was a great day.  Later, after the awards had been given out,

We made our way back to “our place” before venturing out for dinner.  We ate across the street at the hotel, which had denied us access that first night!

Monday, May 27th

Monday we made our way to Obwalden (“Above the Forest”) to Karen’s side of the family.  Once again we went through the mountain pass, Brünig Pass which straddles the cantons of Bern and Obwalden.  I think by now, Lenny could probably drive it with his eyes closed…but please don’t!!!

We visited cousin Anna for morning coffee and sweets, and then we set off for the sacred pilgrimage area of Sachseln, Flüeli and Ranft.  Our lunch stop was at a beautiful hotel/resort, Pax Montana.  

The weather was cloudy, but that didn’t deter us from an abbreviated hike to riverside chapel of Bruder Klaus. The trail took us to the ravine, a purported 7 minute walk, however, the hike back was a steep incline and was a longer return.

Sachseln is the hometown of Niklaus von Flüe, a married man to his wife Dorothea of 20 years.  They had 10 children. He went on a pilgrimage and had an epiphany.  He settled as a hermit in the Ranft while his wife and children remained in their home nearby.  Niklaus is one of the most influential figures in Switzerland.  He is an example in mysticism and spirituality.  Supported by Dorothea, he assumed responsibility at work and in public as well as in family and society.  At the age of 50, he left everything that was dear to him and lived as the hermit “Bruder Klaus”.  Immersed in prayer in the constant search for God, he became a much sought after advisor and mediator.  His contemporaries saw in him a “living saint”.  This respect and veneration survived the centuries and experienced a new upswing after his canonization in 1947.  In 1984 Pope John Paul 11 visited the grave of Brother Klaus and recognized Dorothea a “saintly woman”.

We stopped at the riverside souvenir shop, and realized that this off the beaten path pilgrimage is also an “arm” of the pilgrimage to Santiago in Spain!  So I stamped some slips of paper to share with Karen and Antoinette  to add to our “Way” passport.

We made our way back to town in time for cocktails with Rolf and Bethli  (more cousins!) before going to the “Rose” for dinner.  Three generations have owned and operated the Rose.  Currently, Bruno is the proprietor, and chief chef.  Dinner was fabulous. The cordon blue is fashioned as a clarinet - the instrument played by Rolf’s brother (forgot his name),  Our time at the restaurant was cozy, warm and inviting, while rain came down in torrents!  Back over the Pass to our home away from home. A great day!

Wine Cellar at Rose's

Tuesday, May 28th

Our last day in Brienz!  Meiringen, our neighboring town, was next on our hit list.  This was to be our shopping day.  Needless to point out, Meiringen is the home of meringue AND a Sherlock Holmes museum.

Didn’t get to explore that, so I have an excuse to return.  We had a spot of lunch at a Tea House and Bakery, and enjoyed our souvenir shopping.  

Our last dinner was at Alfred’s at Trauffer’s with Leah and Andy.  Dessert later at their home where we waited for Pax for final goodbyes.  Cigars and bourbon eased the pain of farewell!

Wednesday, May 29th

An early departure brought us yet again through the “Pass”.  We navigated 4 passes with 5 segments:  Brünig, Overalp, Lejkmanier, and Maloja with 26 switchbacks!!!  

Lunchtime brought us into Lugano, (the Swiss Italian canton) where we stopped for a bite.  The Italian area is Ticinese, where we had an Italian lunch at La Tinera.

Next stop - Samedan (Graubünden Canton), Conrad’s family hometown. 

Karen’s very dear friend, Vroni, lives here and she prepared dinner for us (Swiss mac n cheese) upon our arrival.  Lenny and I stayed in rooms above the bakery - right across from Vroni’s.  It was wonderful waking up every day to the aroma of fresh baked bread (not to mention all the sweets and delicacies!).

Thursday, May 30th

Lenny returned our rental car, so from here on in, trains it would be!  Strolled through town taking in the “scrafeto” the plaster depicting 3D embellishment, down to the station to get the bus to St Moritz.  Once again, drippy wet morning, so armed with umbrellas we began our exploration of town.   Making our way through raindrops we came upon Hanselmann, the oldest, famous bakery.  Of course, we had to have coffee and a sweet.                                                                                                                                                                                          
Meandering through town, I heard the jingle jangle of sleigh bells.  Over a block away, I saw a horse drawn coach and mentioned to Karen how nice that would be at Christmas time.  She said, “how about now?”  What a surprise!  The coach is owned and operated by Danko, Vroni’s brother-in-law. 

He provided blankets and took us on a coach ride around the lake and through the forest.. 

He took us to Stazer See (lower lake) that is a common place for marriage proposals.  He told us that some men go to great lengths to decorate and create a picture perfect proposal site.  One girl was not impressed since she was wearing heels in the snow!!  It was quite beautiful.  The rain let up during the ride, then began once again while we visited Valentina’s (Danko’s daughter) new shop which would open the following week.  We also met Lizze at her work place (the pharmacy).   

We bussed back to Samedan, had little down time before going to dinner at the airfield - Piste 21.  My schnitzel was delicious!

Friday May 31st

We woke to a wintry mix of snow, ice and rain!  It was really beautiful - we kinda vegged til the afternoon before going on a quest to see the Steinboch or Ibis or capricorns!

Vroni drove us around her familiar haunts;  Pontresina (The Shadow Hotel) the Languard ski lift and train station, but to no avail.  Next on the agenda, was a visit to Danka’s museum of coaches and coach paraphernalia. 

He has accumulated a wealth of artifacts and accessories of the coaches over the years.  He explained that he acquired most of it from “garage sales” and from others who have passed on.  It is amazing to me that as he approaches retirement, there may not be anyone to continue the tradition…not only of the museum, but of the coaches, and horses - the training of them and the knowledge of driving the coaches!  I think he is attempting to get the tourist bureau interested.  It would be a shame if his life’s work goes defunct.

No worse for the wear, we returned to Vroni’s for wine and snacks, and she feted us on - of course - Swiss fondue for dinner!  It was delicious and much lighter than I expected!

Saturday June 1

We took an early morning walk through Samedan to the church of St Peter ( I used my inhaler before starting )- felt like we were on top of the world - to visit the grave of Conrad’s parents.  Deciding to skip lunch, we snacked on leftover desserts - from our hotel bakery.  Yummy!

Mid afternoon, Vroni called us for a last ditch attempt to spy the Steinboch.  At the ski lift we found a herd of nine!  Just grazing away, not giving us any attention.  They are quite magnificent.  Their racks (antlers) are huge!

Our farewell dinner was one town over in Bever (Beaver) at da Palma.  It was hard to believe that we would be moving on.  We encouraged Vroni to make a trip to the states - maybe we’ll go to California if she does visit Karen.

Sunday June 2nd

Today’s adventure took us on an eight hour train expedition to Zermatt. 

The Glacier Express journeyed through the heart of Switzerland over the Alps, crossing 291 bridges and passing through 91 tunnels. We were very comfortable in our first class accommodations, with lunch, wine and of course sweets.  Each of us received earbuds, so that whenever we reached a point of interest, we could listen to the info provided on the PA.  The Express went to the highest point on the line at the Overlap Pass, the stretch through the Rhine Gorge and the impressive Landwasser Viaduct crossing. The Engadine Lakes were lovely to behold, while delighting in the incredible feats of railway engineering along the way.

Upon our arrival, we found our ride to the Hotel Daniela (a Julien Hotel).  Our rooms each had a balcony, facing the Matterhorn, the most recognizable mountain on the planet according to Rick Steves! 

As he says, it has a mystical draw - the Stonehenge of Switzerland.  As the skyscape changed with flittering clouds so did our view - gone one minute and back the next, visible in full glory!

Zermatt is definitely a tourist town. I think everyone in one way or another makes their living from those who come to peek at the peak!  So we went on a little discovery walk at the base of the Matterhorn which reminded me of a really old movie “The Crawling Eye” (I did find it circa 1958 - a series of decpitations on a Swiss mountainside appeared to be connected to a radioactive cloud - but I digress!). 

We had dinner at the Schafferstuba - Sheep Eating Den - a cheese den - what else?  Karen was anxious to have rachlech (spelling not sure of).  Basically grilled cheese.  A very unique way of making it.  I however, did not want a dinner solely of cheese. The rack of lamb caught my eye and it was delicious!  

Monday June 3rd

We trained up the Matterhorn, for lots of picture taking, visiting the chapel, and shopping. 

Upon our return to the hotel, we relaxed in the wellness center - jacuzzi pool, sauna and steam rooms.  It was great to decompress.  Lenny and I joined Karen and Conrad on their balcony for  cocktails then ventured out to dinner at a Swiss chalet where we had a unique fondue dinner - not just cheese!

Tuesday June 4th

All aboard!  We trained again to Luzern  (we did miss our connection in Bern - quite harrowing)!

Situated on the edge of a lake, encircled by mountainous peaks, it remains the capital of Swiss tourism.  Many famous visitors made it a “must” on their European tour - such as Mark Twain, Goethe, and Queen Victoria.  We stayed at the Hotel Des Alps, right across from the picture-perfect wooden bridge that crosses the water where the river flows out of the lake.  

Luzern is where Karen spent a year working - before nursing school and Conrad.  Needless to say, she has friends here too - of whom we would meet and spend quality time with.  First night was dinner with Vroni’s daughter Olivia.  We walked two miles across the Chapel bridge across the river Ruessfähre.

The Chapel Bridge was built in the first half of the 14th century on an angle to connect the town’s medieval fortifications.  The octagonal water tower was built in 1300. The bridge was decorated with paintings 

and have since been destroyed by fire or time. We ate al fresco along the river and it was delightful!  Upon arriving back at the hotel I was ready to turn in, though Karen met another friend and was not ready to call it a night.

Wednesday June 5th

Today we were to meet Moni and Urs on their boat.  First we walked through a section of the city to see the Weeping Lion a monument dedicated to Swiss mercenaries who were killed or executed defending the French king during the French revolution.

It reminded me of Aslan in Narnia.  How I cried as a kid when that great lion died!  This mighty lion rests his paw on a shield with tears streaming down his face - very moving.  Before going to the marina, we stopped at Heini,

a popular bakery/Cafe.  I had a very delicious berry drink, very quenching.  The cakes and pastries were beautiful to look at!  Moving on…

We met Moni and her husband at the dock, and we proceeded on board for an afternoon cruising the lake.  It was beautiful and they were the perfect guides pointing out things along the shoreline.  The weather turned so we made our way back to the city where Moni led us up the mountain to her home.  What a spectacular view!  By now I was wanting very much to be Swiss!  She had prepared snacks and adult beverages on her terrace with Mt Pilatus looming in the distance!  We walked to dinner amid raindrops to a very lovely restaurant.  Dinner was prepared table side by the waitress.  I think the entree was a schnitzel cooked in what looked like 2 pounds of butter!!  I was a little horrified!  It sure looked delicious!  

Thursday June 6th

We met Karen’s friends, Ursula and her husband Tom at the boat dock where we embarked to get to Mt Pilatus.  This mountain is named for Pontius Pilate whose body is supposedly in one of its lakes, kicking up a fuss if disturbed!  We took a cog train up the mountain - I think every mode of transportation was used by us during our entire stay in this unique and beautiful country!

We hiked around the top, marveling at the panorama. 

Descending the mountain involved 2 gondolas.  The first one was flat bottomed and held up to 20 people. 

We stopped midway down and walked through a forest to a little restaurant in the woods.  Of course, Ursi knew the proprietor.  Wine and beer were the order of the day - don’t even remember what we had for lunch, just know that we did!  The second gondola, to the bottom, was one you got into as it made its way around the mechanism.  Here we separated into hims and hers. 

We weren’t done yet - when we reached the bottom we were to walk to the Ursi’s home - oh it’s close - I was told.  HAH!  By now it was so humid and I was getting cranky - can you believe?  I think it was a few miles - at least that’s what it felt like!

Their home was built over several years - right into the side of a mountain.  They live on the top floor of the building, so you can imagine their view.  The teeny chapel we saw from the top of Mt Pilatus could be seen from their vantage spot and Ursi played the alphorn (as seen in Ricolah commercials) 

there in a concert once! She is also an artist and sculptor.  I was blown away by her garden, her art and her cooking!  We had some kind of stew - venison perhaps?  Not sure, but it was good.  They were so hospitable as were all of Karen and Conrad’s family and friends.  This was so unlike any other trip we’ve taken.  We were so welcome and well cared for.  As our time together drew to a close a 

rainbow appeared in the valley as a beautiful testament to a fabulous trip, fabulous friends old and new and a desire to return to this magical country!

Friday June 7th

Homeward Bound - Farewell Switzerland!  Edelweiss Forever!!