AMSTERDAM  April 3 - 15  2023

We arrived Monday morning after an uneventful flight ( how I like them) and were able to check into our room at the NH Museum Quarter even though it was so early.  

Our pleasant room overlooked a canal and we were able to relax a bit before venturing out to our guided tour at the Van Gogh museum. I probably could’ve slept for a few hours but we plowed on. We grabbed a light lunch on the way to our meeting point across from the Ruks museum. The Ruks is the National Gallery for the Netherlands and houses many important pieces. The Vermeer exhibit was virtually impossible to get tickets, so we made do with what we could get. 

We met our guide, Anna, and proceeded to the museum where not only can you get lockers free of charge, but you can get little foldable seats to take with you throughout.  Anna suggested we take theses since she’d be having “long stories” at some of the paintings. A good thing too - I actually nodded off during one of these “stories”. Later on she told me she saw me closing my eyes!  Embarrassing!

We made our way back to the hotel, decided where to find dinner and went out again. I think I was sleep walking!  Found a little Italian place across the canal and enjoyed our meal with a Montepulciano vino!  We could finally go to sleep!

Tuesday April 4

We had an 11 o’clock tour time…Ann Frank and WWII …horrific.  Our guide, Peter, was an historian and actually had personal memorabilia from his own grandparents.  We visited the Holocaust Memorial

and walked about 10 miles. Touring the actual house was an impossibility…lines out the Yin Yang even with timed entry tickets! 

So a bit of history - The Netherlands was neutral during WWl. German Jews migrated here post war thinking they’d be safe. Hence the Franks living there, originally from Austria. Otto, the father, insisted the daughters ( Ann and Margot) learn Dutch cause now they were Dutch. The whole set of circumstances is so bizarre. Otto Frank had even been in the states!  They had family in NY… couldn’t get visas.  By the time the world had figured out what was going on, foreign embassies (US) were closing down! 

To this day, it is not known how the family was discovered in their secret hiding place. They did have help from friends but it is thought that it was happenstance and not from someone exposing them.  It’s a head scratcher.

We found an Argentinian eatery, had a quick bite then onto a boat ride around the city.  This was great…40 minutes of listening to trivia about Amsterdam. We rode to the harbor where we’ll be getting our barge tomorrow and sighted the Marine and Science museums. Both our captain, and cab driver have the same opinion of the newer architecture…hate it…they both ( independently) lumped it all together as 70’s ugly!

Once we returned to the city we made our way in search of “Rembrandt’s Amsterdam Experience”. This was a little cheesy, but again, after walking a few miles it was a great respite.  This was an interactive exhibit, putting the observer back to 1663.  Rembrandt had gone bankrupt, and his wife and son were acting as his agents, finding wealthy patrons to buy his paintings and to commission portraits.  We were immersed into Amsterdam of the 17th century with the use of video, projections, scents, music and 3D effect.

I thought we’d find a cab back to the hotel, but no. We stopped at an Irish pub for some libation, then decided to go directly to dinner. We’d been out since 10:30 and now it was 6:30. I knew if we’d go back to the hotel I’d never leave again!

We picked a place on the way home…Lotje Cafe.  It was pretty good.  Got back by 8:30 and fell into bed. But alas - sleep would not come. If I was an infant I be described as “overtired”!  

April 5 - 12

We arrived at the barge (The Iris) by noon and immediately saw Rosita.  It was like old home week. 

She introduced us to the other guide, Lea, and took our bags on board.  The barge must have been recently renovated as it was crisp, clean, and modern plumbing…unlike the Luciol in France back in ’14.  Since we were early, we made our way over to the Nemo, the Maritime museum for some picture taking.  Got back to the barge met the other riders and began our journey through The Netherlands.

We traveled along the Amstel River for about two hours, where we stopped and had a warm up bike ride - about 10 miles -then met the barge in a little town called Utihoorn.  Dinner was quite the affair, after which we had a formal intro to the staff, each other and a brief talk about the next days’ ride.  So far, so good.

Day 2 dawned gray and misty and our route of 32 miles would take us to Gouda.  Our first stop was at the Kasteel da Haar. 

It was originally the site of a castle built in 1391.Presently, it is one of the most impressive castles in the country.  It is surrounded by an estate of 135 acres, complete with ponds, canals, gardens and bridges. A guided tour was arranged for us at 11:30 and we had arrived early. 

Lenny didn’t want to stick around since the weather was threatening and we had a way to go.  We left the group, rode through Odewater (a medieval town) on our way to Gouda - of cheese fame. Gouda is most famous for its cheese market where it is still traded in the traditional way.  We arrived at the market (it happened to be the first outdoor market of the season) as they were breaking it down, I think because of the weather. By now, the rain was heavy, and we were freezing.  We rode to the center of town, and found a place to have lunch.

I had a few cups of hot tea (just to keep my hands warm) and soup.  By the time we finished, others from the group started to trickle in.  Unfortunately, the barge hadn’t made it to our rendezvous yet, so Lenny and I went into the church (St Janskerk) to view the stained class windows. These magnificent windows were gifts from catholic benefactors and then, after the Reformation (1517) from wealthy Protestant patrons. We took the audio tour and kept dry for the next hour or so.  They are unusual in that their subject matter of Biblical themes reflect much about the politics and events of the time.  The patrons were depicted in their “gift” and I found this to be pretty funny.  We got a little turned around getting back to the barge, but we got to the quay shortly after the barge had arrived.  Couldn’t get into the shower fast enough or get it hot enough!

Again, Day 3 dawned gray - but no rain - yet.  Today’s 31 mile ride was through beautiful countryside.  Everything is so green - and clean!  The homes along the canal are so prim and lovely.  All I kept thinking of was I needed to wash windows when I got home!  We were scheduled to stop at a cheese farm to have a tour, pet the cows,

learn the cheese making process, and sample the delicious variations.  I was so cold and damp, I decided to ride back to the barge in the van.  Lea was on van detail - pretty funny - she kept stalling out and I was getting a little nervous.  Obviously, we made it back to the barge, in the city of Leiden, in South Holland, the birthplace of Rembrandt. The town is known for its’ architecture.  I have to say, the architecture of the country is quite unique and picturesque.

Day 4 dawned beautiful and sunny - windy and cool - but sunny.  Today’s 25 miles would take us through the flower fields and to the Keukenhof Gardens.  Everyone was so excited - this is what we were here for!  The fields were spectacular and the aroma of the hyacinths!  

I was surprised to learn that after the bloom, the bulbs are dug up, and replanted in the fall. 

Maybe that’s why my tulips never came back!  The formal gardens were beautiful.  However, it was Holy Saturday, and the tour buses kept coming in!  When we got through the entrance, it felt like I was in Disney World…not what I was expecting.  We made our way around the park, oohed and aahed, and then took off.  We were to meet the barge in Haarlem and is often called “Little Amsterdam”.  Tonight, dinner was on our own, so we joined some others and went to a  brewery in a converted church.  That was about as close to an Easter service as I got!  It was delightful walking through the town.

Another bleak day, Day 5 took us 34 miles through the nature reserve behind the North Sea dunes.  It was touted as “Easier”, but for me, it was challenging and quite arduous.  Lenny took off and I remained the caboose with Rosita.  She was very supportive but there were times when I wanted to be solo.  When we broke out of the forested reserve, the trail remained in a broad, wide expanse of nature.  Ducks, geese, water, willows, and all on a brick (cobbled) path.  I thought my teeth would exit my ears…and my butt!!!  And the WIND!!!…Lea called riding in the hills, the “Mountains” of Holland!  At times it felt like I was riding in reverse!  I was so cold - we missed a couple of the stop offs… photo spots and such - just wanted to get to our lunch stop.  We were so close to the North Sea, that at times the mist felt like ice chips skimming my cheeks! By now I was back with Lenny - I don’t know what happened to Rosita.  I knew I wasn’t going to continue on after lunch…Van - here I come.  Lenny and I ate our little sandwich on a bench and then went in search of the hotel/beach restaurant for tea and soup…it was becoming a habit.  The restaurant was on the beach and the beach did not look very inviting.  We warmed up, then I made sure Lea wouldn’t leave without me even though I knew I was taking my life in my hands by riding with her again!  Our next stop was further inland at the private gardens of Hortus Bulborum.  This garden preserves the ancient varieties of tulips as a resource for the future.

It was lovely, however, by then I was flower weary and anxious to get going - and of course I couldn’t cause I was in the van - and the van is last to leave.  Tonight we’d be staying in Alkmaar, the center of the cheese trade, beautiful canals and lovely historical buildings.

Day 6 continued gray and cold.  Our 23 miles would take us to historic windmills in the Schermer where we were scheduled for a tour and a bit of history.  This area uses windmills to pump water and keep the land dry. 

This was an aspect of windmills I never realized…I always thought windmills were used for grinding grains.  It was really fascinating.  I bailed again  - the wind was getting to me.  So I rode with Lea, to meet the barge at Zaanse Schans.  This is an open-air museum much like Williamsburg or Bethpage Village.  It was so crowded, Lea could not find parking.  She had to let me off in an area where security was flagging her to go.  She pled my case, and I had to walk through throngs of people to find the barge.  She had assured me it was there, though not obvious to me.  I found the boat, boarded and found that Mary and Ken did not ride at all and were having a very lovely “staff” lunch.

The rest of the riders were back shortly after and it seemed that everyone was happy to have some down time for an afternoon.

Day 7 gave us a choice of mileage to ride - 16 or 38.  Len and I decided to not ride but enjoy the return trip to Amsterdam on the barge.  It was a pretty day, and enjoyable to experience the canal locks and bridges while on board.  Our final night was a bit festive - table runners and flowers!  Everyone was abuzz with their plans après barge.  Ken and Wendell would be going on to Bruges, like us so we decided to have dinner together on Thursday.

Day 8 Au Revoir!  Goodbye to new friends, with talk of perhaps meeting again!  Lenny got the rental car and off to Bruges we go!

We took the scenic route and stopped at the Flood Museum.   The Watersnoodmuseum or Flood Museum in Ouwerkerk, Netherlands is the "National Knowledge and Remembrance Centre for the Floods of 1953" and offers an in-depth picture of the events during and after the flood of 1 February 1953. The museum is housed in actual caissons that were placed in this area to plug the breach.  It was a little eerie being below ground but very interesting.

We were to stay at the House of Bruges - a type of AIR BNB - a guesthouse.  Keyless entry, and map to our room off a courtyard.  I imagine it must be lovely in good weather.  We made our way to the oldest bar in Bruges, 

The Vlissinghe (1515) on Cate’s recommendation.  It was really cool.  Great ambiance, communal trestle tables and a very sleepy dog that came over to us as soon as the waitress brought over some food! 

Thursday dawned sunny and windy and we were to meet our guide, Flavia at the guest house.  She is Argentinian, but met her Bruges husband while studying there. 

We started our walking tour at the statue of Jan van Eyck, a notable Belgium painter of the 15th century.  He is said to be the inventor of oil painting.  He is sometimes referred to as an early innovator of what was to become know as Early Northern Renaissance Art.

From this vantage spot, we learned about the very distinctive form of Belgium architecture, and the telescoping rooflines.  The amount of step-cuts might have signified the wealth or stature of a person. She also explained that Bruges is ENTIRELY a Unesco World Heritage Site.  That said, nothing, by no-one, can be changed, modified or deleted in any way, shape or form…even paint colors!  

From there we walked to the main square where a carnival was set up - being the holiday week. The main belfry was in this square and tons of tourists were vying for admission.  Flavia told us that Bruges is basically a day trip destination and around 5 there’s nobody around!

We stopped at the Basilica of the Holy Blood, where, yes, you guessed it, there is a vial of Christ’s blood on display.  The climb up was arduous for me (boo, hip) so after the climb I HAD to get up close and personal.  The relic of the passion was allegedly collected by Joseph of Arimathea and brought from the Holy Land by the Count of Flanders, and he had the church built.  The relic is housed in the upper chapel, hence the steps…

We stopped at Pur Chocolate and made a purchase, of course.  Belgium chocolate is the best!  Just ask them!  This confectionary was featured in a Hallmark movie - haven’t found it yet.  Anyhow, onward to the wall of beer - thousands of beer steins displayed in glass cabinets. 

It seems that each beer has a particular glass and never should a beer be served in a wrong glass!

We made a stop at the Church of Our Lady.  It dates from the 13th - 15th centuries.This church is essentially "...a monument to the wealth, sophistication, taste, and devotion of this most Catholic city, whose history and faith stand today celebrated in this wonderful building”.

For me, the wow factor of this church, is that it houses one of Michelangelo’s smaller Pietas!  It is his ONLY work to ever leave Italy!!

We continued our walk until we came to the Half Moon Brewery.  Here we stopped and imbibed.  We parted ways with Flavia and found our way back to the guesthouse.  We were meeting Ken and Co. later for dinner.  Bruges - great little city!

We left Bruges for Amsterdam and decided to stop in Ghent -  a city in the Flemish region of Belgium. It is the capital and largest city of the  province, and the third largest in the country, exceeded in size only by Brussels and Antwerp. It had the same feel as Bruges, as a day visit, with hordes of people, but larger.  We climbed a belfry and took some photos before heading back to the hotel. 

Traffic was horrendous and we barely had energy to get some dinner before crashing.  The hotel was interestingly situated within walking distance to the hotel, so that was pretty good.

In summation, it was a great trip, and another on the “Bucket List” checked off!  Words really can’t describe the beauty of the Netherlands, but I wouldn’t mind going there if I had to disappear for 4 years!! (if you’re reading this when I’m gone, check out the politics of the era!!)